Real Deal Spolas

[Feinman]

Goat leather arrived, and today I can focus on this project. Progress pics in about ten hours.

[Feinman]

Okay, so have a complete section of scales cut out, and I've positioned them on the right side of breastplate layers instead of the left side where they will actually go cuz I didn't want to reposition them again!  But I can still show the construction plan, with these offset layers..  The casein water-toughened goat leather seen on right is the backing for the scales, (to be trimmed to correct size later).  The scales at the edge next to the edges of breastplate (and backplate layers), will be lashed with the linen lacing to equally spaced holes in the inner layers of the front plate (and backplate), and the outer layers will have matching corresponding holes so that they, with their edging, can be sewn through the same holes to the inner layers, making everything strong and whole, and matching the depiction exactly.  Now I've got to put holes in the scales (drill) and then paint them.  Then to make the same number again, plus a few more, for the overlapped potion at the left side.

   

   

   

[Feinman]

Got the holes punched in to the scale blanks, each row made carefully parallel to the bottom of each scale by using a spacer.  First I made indentations with an awl, then used a metal point to push the indentations deeper and then used the Whitney punch by feel.

   

I was going to make a final waterproofing coating that could be reapplied, containing tallow.  A little searching and I found Wren's Dubbin; it contains the ingredients I was going to use (and a few other things), and I applied it to my test piece (which I can later usr for a second armour with some Deepeeka scales I have), and the results are perfect!! So I'll be using it, as a final coating.  It doesn't damage the leather, as the leather is already casein / water treated first.

   

Now to paint this side of scales and seal them; I'll get a start tonight, and post pics when there is something to show.

[Crispianus]

I was going to make a final waterproofing coating that could be reapplied, containing tallow.  A little searching and I found Wren's Dubbin; it contains the ingredients I was going to use (and a few other things), and I applied it to my test piece (which I can later usr for a second armour with some Deepeeka scales I have), and the results are perfect!! So I'll be using it, as a final coating.  It doesn't damage the leather, as the leather is already casein / water treated first.

Personally I would'nt use a fat based waterproofer as it needs to penetrate the leather to be effective and otherwise is just going to leave a greasy coat on the surface, I would have thought what you've already done would be sufficient... its the sort of thing I'd normally use on leather boots for wet weather.
I thought the Wren brand had been discontinued actually nice to see its still going...

Just my opinion

[Feinman]

I was going to make a final waterproofing coating that could be reapplied, containing tallow.  A little searching and I found Wren's Dubbin; it contains the ingredients I was going to use (and a few other things), and I applied it to my test piece (which I can later usr for a second armour with some Deepeeka scales I have), and the results are perfect!! So I'll be using it, as a final coating.  It doesn't damage the leather, as the leather is already casein / water treated first.

Personally I would'nt use a fat based waterproofer as it needs to penetrate the leather to be effective and otherwise is just going to leave a greasy coat on the surface, I would have thought what you've already done would be sufficient... its the sort of thing I'd normally use on leather boots for wet weather.
I thought the Wren brand had been discontinued actually nice to see its still going...

Just my opinion

Thanks for the advice Ivor! I will hold off for now and watch the test piece. I was interested to see what would happen, especially if it would darken it in any way or affect the adhesion of the casein, but because that was deposited into the fibers p, it is really one with the leather, and can even take extreme bending without any cracking. Water beads right up on the surface; the question is the possible darkening of the oils and tallow over time, but there should be evidence by the time things are done. The inner layer will have the skin side facing the wearer; I will seal that with the oil / beeswax, maybe dubbin at end, to stop sweat from permeating the leather. I just want the finish to be durable, tolerate marching, camp and battle.

[Feinman]

Just painting the scales.. Should all be done by this weekend and then I can start sewing them onto the backing! I made a few more scales as I decided I wanted five scales across the section connecting the front and back panel, under the right arm, so there would be more range of movement.

[Feinman]

Tomorrow evening I'll post some progress pics! The section of scales is all painted --that was actually a bit of work.

[Feinman]

scales are painted, now need to clean out the holes, polish them up and put the final sealing layers on:

   

   

[Feinman]

Scales done, so I'm going to start sewing them onto the backing this morning. Pics later this evening!

[Feinman]

All but three rows sewn on to the section.  I'll trim the backing down to size a bit later. The bottom square scales with holes at top and bottom will also secure the ptyreges  for the section.

   

[Feinman]

Things are going really well! Been sick for a couple of days, but got work done before that. Pics tomorrow.

[Feinman]

Okay, so the first pic shows the scales and backing sewn to the inner layer of the front section.  I have taken off the lowest row of scales, and I will sew them on when I attach the ptyreges. I still haven't trimmed the backing down yet.  The inner layer is shorter at the bottom, because that's where the leather from the double lauer of ptyreges will be, lashed to bottom of inner layer, to provide uniform thickness throughout.  The second pic shows the front outer layer set in place where it will be sewn to the inner layer through the edging holes to form the continuous line of stitching.  I haven't finished punching  holes in the inner front layer anf outer layer yet, so things arent sewn together completely at that edge yet.

   

   

[Feinman]

Leather for ptyreges and more milk paint arriving today! I should have the holes in the two layers for the front section done by Friday, then this weekend I will sew the front together! :-)

[Feinman]

Leather for ptyreges and more milk paint arriving today!  I should have the holes in the two layers for the front section done by Friday, then this weekend I will sew the front together!  :-)

More pics tomorrow!

[Feinman]

Some pics.  Sewing things together, need to make the ptyreges for this section to finish it.  Leather cut for top edging and design transferred, now need to paint it before sewing it on.  One of the arm opening edging pieces sewn on. The bottom row of scales will be sewn back on when ptyreges are attached.