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+--- Thread: Heat-treated or no? (/showthread.php?tid=31051)
RE: Heat-treated or no? - brennivs - tony drake - 03-27-2019
Excellent
Dan that's what I was meaning.Regards Brennivs
RE: Heat-treated or no? - Dan D'Silva - 06-01-2020
Hi again. I finally got the dagger. One last step is I'm wondering if there's any way to attach a cord wrap to improve the grip, as the ones from Deve Huyuk don't appear to have had holes or loops to act as an anchor point.
RE: Heat-treated or no? - brennivs - tony drake - 06-01-2020
Post a picture so we can see what you have to work with ?
Regards Brennivs
RE: Heat-treated or no? - Dan D'Silva - 06-01-2020
Here we go. No features at all, just a smooth steel bar. For the wrapping material, either 2mm hemp cord or 1/4-inch buckskin.
Worst comes to worst, I can make a loop out of steel rod as was used on some Scythian akinakai, and silver-solder it just below the pommel, but that isn't a feature of the ones from Deve Huyuk.
RE: Heat-treated or no? - brennivs - tony drake - 06-01-2020
You dont need to have anchor points you can use a simple method used to attach rod rings.
https://www.romanarmytalk.com/rat/showthread.php?tid=27426
I put this up which you may be able to follow
Regards Brennivs
RE: Heat-treated or no? - Dan D'Silva - 06-01-2020
Very helpful, thanks!
I've done a product review and writeup. Thank you everyone for your advice.
RE: Heat-treated or no? - brennivs - tony drake - 06-02-2020
Wow excellent work Dan looks great. Glad the method worked for you and no tools required
I dare say scabbard next look forward to that as well thanks for posting Regards Brennivs
RE: Heat-treated or no? - PygmyHippo - 06-02-2020
Beautiful! I, too am working on an akinakes. This is very informative.
RE: Heat-treated or no? - Dan D'Silva - 06-02-2020
Yep. It's going to take a while, though, 'cause the bulky top means there's a lot of wood to remove, and I no longer have access to a belt sander to reduce it quickly. That part isn't a process that I feel the need to document, since I did it back in 2015.
The one new thing I'd like to try is trying to attach the leather facing with some kind of pitch or resin, since it's outdoor gear and waterproof glue would be an advantage, and I want it to be as period-appropriate as possible this time -- no more rubber cement if it can be avoided.
RE: Heat-treated or no? - Crispianus - 06-06-2020
(06-02-2020, 03:25 PM)Dan D\Silva Wrote: Yep. It's going to take a while, though, 'cause the bulky top means there's a lot of wood to remove, and I no longer have access to a belt sander to reduce it quickly. That part isn't a process that I feel the need to document, since I did it back in 2015.
The one new thing I'd like to try is trying to attach the leather facing with some kind of pitch or resin, since it's outdoor gear and waterproof glue would be an advantage, and I want it to be as period-appropriate as possible this time -- no more rubber cement if it can be avoided.
Why glue the leather at all?, on all the scabbards I've made with a wooden core the leather has been stretched over the top and stitched up the back with a running stitch, the two wooden halves are held together by the leather cover no glue necesary, except to hold the lining in place...
Up till now I've not found any natural glue that I would consider suitable long term for leather, however I'm pretty convinced that ancient leather workers used glue if only for temporary fixing.
RE: Heat-treated or no? - Dan Howard - 06-06-2020
I use glue but just to hold it temporarily while working on it. As said above, it isn't needed long term because of the stitching.
RE: Heat-treated or no? - Dan D'Silva - 06-06-2020
Thing is, the akinakes scabbard (of the type found in Egypt and Oxus and shown at Persepolis) has "valleys" below the throat and on the side where the belt tab is, and I don't see how the leather is going to conform to them unless it's glued down. A metal facing could be shaped permanently, though the Egyptian one appears to have had its foil facing pasted on, but I'm not that good at metalwork yet.
RE: Heat-treated or no? - Athena Areias - 06-06-2020
(06-06-2020, 12:51 PM)Dan D\Silva Wrote: Thing is, the akinakes scabbard (of the type found in Egypt and Oxus and shown at Persepolis) has "valleys" below the throat and on the side where the belt tab is, and I don't see how the leather is going to conform to them unless it's glued down. A metal facing could be shaped permanently, though the Egyptian one appears to have had its foil facing pasted on, but I'm not that good at metalwork yet.
If you use a thinner leather (I used goatskin), sew it inside out on your scabbard, pull it off like a sock, get it very wet, and work it back on the scabbard right side out, it will "shrink wrap" your scabbard as it dries and conform to the shape. You may have to flatten the seam on the inside, but if you do it as you pull up your wet "sock", you will be all right. I waited and had to work a small slat down the seam to fix it. Good luck.
RE: Heat-treated or no? - Dan D'Silva - 06-07-2020
Will that technique work with chamois leather?
Is pitch glue really not going to work here?
RE: Heat-treated or no? - Athena Areias - 06-07-2020
(06-07-2020, 12:57 PM)Dan D\Silva Wrote: Will that technique work with chamois leather?
Is pitch glue really not going to work here?
Well, chamois is goatskin, right? I'd test it, though. I know nothing about pitch glue.