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Silver leaf thickness?
#16
Salve,

You said
Quote:"I don't think leaf will be any good, as I've already tried it with three layers and still the wood gets scratched through easily.

Yes, even multiple layers of leaf can scratch through to wood; if wood is the base.

What you could try is this… pick up some K&S 12â€
Vale!

Antonivs Marivs Congianocvs
aka_ANTH0NY_C0NGIAN0

My ancient coin collection:
[url:3lgwsbe7]http://www.congiano.com/MyCoins/index.htm[/url]
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#17
Jim, is the silver leaf nice and even when applied?

I just did a large surface and the finish is very streaky. Might be that I didn't apply the mixtion/size smooth enough...

Vale,
Jef Pinceel
a.k.a.
Marcvs Mvmmivs Falco

LEG XI CPF vzw
>Q SER FEST
www.LEGIOXI.be
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#18
Quote:They make a silver color too.
Anthony, believe me, it's not gonna be anything near the sheer brightness that real silver has. I got some of the silver embossing sheet that I think perhaps you're talking about, and it honestly doesn't even come near to the beauty that silver leaf is. Silver leaf just catches the light that, when you first apply it, just catches the light and makes you go "Oooohhhhh,... shiny" in a Homer Simpson kind of way.
Quote:Jim, is the silver leaf nice and even when applied?
I just did a large surface and the finish is very streaky. Might be that I didn't apply the mixtion/size smooth enough...
Jef, if you're applying to something like a smooth scabbard plate, it's a dream. But if the surface is heavily embossed it's a nightmare. I have to apply multiple layers, but the size can be spot-brushed onto those parts where the first layer didn't take and a piece of leaf that isn't on the waxed paper applied. Personally I don't have a problem with an imperfect surface, it's down to your personal taste. Remember to take a soft brush to the leaf after you've applied it and gently and repeatedly smooth the leaf down. Brush one way, then the other way at a right angle to the first strokes.

There are sources on the internet for both silver leaf, and for silver sheet cut to size, that are very cheap. You just need to shop around.
TARBICvS/Jim Bowers
A A A DESEDO DESEDO!
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#19
Quote:For a pugio scabbard and belt parts, would you recommend Silver Leaf, Transfer (95 x 95mm) or did you use a different one? And (to attach the silver leaf) what sizing did you find worked best?
Caballo, I don't think leaf is a good subject for a pugio scabbard as it takes a lot of knocks on the edges. A gladius scabbard's plates are usually protected by the guttering (at least I hope so :? )
TARBICvS/Jim Bowers
A A A DESEDO DESEDO!
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#20
Thanks Jim. Actually the streaky finish was on a flat surface and I got a much better finish on a heavily embossed piece... But I think the brush I used may be the culprit. It was quite hard and stif (pig's hair). I'll get a softer one and see if it makes a difference.

Also it seems that there is a lot of difference in the mixtion you can use. Mine was fast drying and should be ready for use in 20minutes. More professional mixtions dry a lot slower.

Roman leaf metal was about 5 times thicker than our modern leaf metal. So that's a thickness of about 5µ.

Vale,
Jef Pinceel
a.k.a.
Marcvs Mvmmivs Falco

LEG XI CPF vzw
>Q SER FEST
www.LEGIOXI.be
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#21
Quote:Also it seems that there is a lot of difference in the mixtion you can use. Mine was fast drying and should be ready for use in 20minutes. More professional mixtions dry a lot slower.
I'm using size that goes tacky in 20 minutes, but can take a few hours to dry out. I can still get the brush marks, but a softer brush usually sorts that out.
TARBICvS/Jim Bowers
A A A DESEDO DESEDO!
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#22
Salve

you said
Quote:Anthony, believe me, it's not gonna be anything near the sheer brightness that real silver has...

I totally agree but, I guess I wasn’t specific in my suggestion; I wanted you to still use silver leaf.

What I was trying to suggest is… you could lay very thin 36 gauge silvered brass over the wood and then...

Then lay the silver leaf on top of the silvered brass.

I figured if a deep scratch did go through the silver leaf, at least you’d have a silverish backing so it wouldn’t look ‘too’ bad.

I think silvered brass would give you a far stronger base than the wood and ‘most likely’ will be less likely to scratch during combat and other activities. Also some sealer would help against scratching.
Vale!

Antonivs Marivs Congianocvs
aka_ANTH0NY_C0NGIAN0

My ancient coin collection:
[url:3lgwsbe7]http://www.congiano.com/MyCoins/index.htm[/url]
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#23
Quote:I totally agree but, I guess I wasn’t specific in my suggestion; I wanted you to still use silver leaf...
Right, I'm with you now, thanks, and a good suggestion.

Anyone know how thick 36 gauge is in millimetres?

Added: Answered my own question (athough both tables give different results):
http://www.reddifast.co.uk/information/conversions.html
http://www.kitco.com/jewelry/gauge-inch-mm.html
TARBICvS/Jim Bowers
A A A DESEDO DESEDO!
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#24
It's about the thickness of a few sheets of paper... so perhaps 1 mm or less?

I can measure it tonight.... here are a few photos where you can see the 36 gauge brass from my attic helmet project...

[Image: IMG_3983.JPG]

I'm laminating this thin 36 gauge brass on to the 18 gauge brass visor I made earlier
[Image: hIMG_4002.jpg]

[Image: hIMG_4032.jpg]
Vale!

Antonivs Marivs Congianocvs
aka_ANTH0NY_C0NGIAN0

My ancient coin collection:
[url:3lgwsbe7]http://www.congiano.com/MyCoins/index.htm[/url]
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#25
Hi,

This scabbard fitting appears to be cleverly using three colours- the leather showing through the pierced sections, a tinned or silvered background, and the natural brass for armour etc. Could look great on a reconstruction- thinking of doing this to my spatha...


[Image: milit-gladiusblech.jpg]
[Image: wip2_r1_c1-1-1.jpg] [Image: Comitatuslogo3.jpg]


aka Paul B, moderator
http://www.romanarmy.net/auxilia.htm
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