01-29-2015, 08:05 AM
Gelu, currently their unnailed but would be the same as these...
two rows of nails round the outside of the foot and three rows in the centre and heel with a short gap ....
[attachment=11656]CavalryBootcowsmaller.jpg[/attachment]
As to time I estimate around 30 hours for a pair, but it often takes longer I think depending on how much detail.. this only applies to the final pair of shoes....
Order of shoe making in a nutshell:
1.Make the foot shapes for the required size and style
2.Make and adjust the first pattern
3.Trial piece is then made and adjusted as necessary *
4.Pattern finalised
5.If I'm happy at this stage I make the final pair, Keep in mind you cant uncut leather...... ;-)
Construction depends on the original shoe each process for left and right is done back to back..
* sometimes I skip 3 depending on how many I've previously made.....
[attachment=11657]SaalburgCalceino2small.jpg[/attachment]
Shoe Construction order in a nutshell:
A. Cut out the upper, heel counter and insole plus any other parts as necesary.
B. Make any special stamps or tools necessary for decorating the shoe and test them.
C. Decorate the uppers.
D. Stitch up the uppers complete, including any additions and internal components regularly testing the uppers for fit and tension on the last.
E. Fit the finished uppers to the last, fit the insole and "brace" the upper over it making sure the insole is correctly positioned, and the upper correctly tensioned.
F. Stitch the upper to the insole using whip/tunnel stitch along the lasting margin working from the side of the foot around the heel first and then up round the toe.
G Fill the space in the centre of the sole with leather pieces cut to fit this creates the mid sole, and carefully cut slots through the mid and insole for lacing the mid sole.
H. Remove the shoes from the last , lace the mid sole in, and hammer down the edges of the lasting margin as necessary particularly in the heel region using a metal hobnailing foot.
I. Refit the shoes to the lasts and mark out and cut out the soles using the shoe as a template finally trimming to size and shape as necessary to fit, and finishing the edges of the soles.
J. Put in the holes for tunnel stitching in the sole and Upper/insole with a suitable awl, these should overlap slightly, in neither case should these holes penetrate the outer sole or insole of the shoe.
K.Tunnel stitch the soles to the upper/insole working from the side round the heel to the toe pulling the thread tight as you go
L. Take the shoes of the last and hammer the sole flat on a hobnailing foot, followed if required by hobnailing with suitable nails in a suitable pattern.
M: The shoes are finally greased waxed or polished as necesary...... and are now complete
Final note: this is only one method there are a number of others ways...
No Glue was used during the making of this Production.....
two rows of nails round the outside of the foot and three rows in the centre and heel with a short gap ....
[attachment=11656]CavalryBootcowsmaller.jpg[/attachment]
As to time I estimate around 30 hours for a pair, but it often takes longer I think depending on how much detail.. this only applies to the final pair of shoes....
Order of shoe making in a nutshell:
1.Make the foot shapes for the required size and style
2.Make and adjust the first pattern
3.Trial piece is then made and adjusted as necessary *
4.Pattern finalised
5.If I'm happy at this stage I make the final pair, Keep in mind you cant uncut leather...... ;-)
Construction depends on the original shoe each process for left and right is done back to back..
* sometimes I skip 3 depending on how many I've previously made.....
[attachment=11657]SaalburgCalceino2small.jpg[/attachment]
Shoe Construction order in a nutshell:
A. Cut out the upper, heel counter and insole plus any other parts as necesary.
B. Make any special stamps or tools necessary for decorating the shoe and test them.
C. Decorate the uppers.
D. Stitch up the uppers complete, including any additions and internal components regularly testing the uppers for fit and tension on the last.
E. Fit the finished uppers to the last, fit the insole and "brace" the upper over it making sure the insole is correctly positioned, and the upper correctly tensioned.
F. Stitch the upper to the insole using whip/tunnel stitch along the lasting margin working from the side of the foot around the heel first and then up round the toe.
G Fill the space in the centre of the sole with leather pieces cut to fit this creates the mid sole, and carefully cut slots through the mid and insole for lacing the mid sole.
H. Remove the shoes from the last , lace the mid sole in, and hammer down the edges of the lasting margin as necessary particularly in the heel region using a metal hobnailing foot.
I. Refit the shoes to the lasts and mark out and cut out the soles using the shoe as a template finally trimming to size and shape as necessary to fit, and finishing the edges of the soles.
J. Put in the holes for tunnel stitching in the sole and Upper/insole with a suitable awl, these should overlap slightly, in neither case should these holes penetrate the outer sole or insole of the shoe.
K.Tunnel stitch the soles to the upper/insole working from the side round the heel to the toe pulling the thread tight as you go
L. Take the shoes of the last and hammer the sole flat on a hobnailing foot, followed if required by hobnailing with suitable nails in a suitable pattern.
M: The shoes are finally greased waxed or polished as necesary...... and are now complete
Final note: this is only one method there are a number of others ways...
No Glue was used during the making of this Production.....
Ivor
"And the four bare walls stand on the seashore. a wreck a skeleton a monument of that instability and vicissitude to which all things human are subject. Not a dwelling within sight, and the farm labourer, and curious traveller, are the only persons that ever visit the scene where once so many thousands were congregated." T.Lewin 1867
"And the four bare walls stand on the seashore. a wreck a skeleton a monument of that instability and vicissitude to which all things human are subject. Not a dwelling within sight, and the farm labourer, and curious traveller, are the only persons that ever visit the scene where once so many thousands were congregated." T.Lewin 1867
