05-30-2010, 08:06 PM
Hi,
Over the last few months I have been busy in my secret laboratory (consisting of kitchen, shed and a proper lab too!) and have attempted to recreate some ancient perfumed oils based on research (and a little artistic licence).
Although I didn't sit there stirring the concoctions day and night as the ancients did, I cheated somewhat with modern steam distillation and other extraction methods and a few handy ready available essential oils.
I had to rely on my 'chemist nose' in order to balance the different notes as I don't have access to actual quantities of each ingredient. I was however pleasantly surprised at how different concoctions balanced out certain odours and gave a completely new odour.
I have managed to create a blend of perfumed oils at present. Here is an overview of what I have created.
Megalion- Top notes of citrus and honey, with a second heavy blast of cinnamon with a slight vanilla like hint which I think comes from the myrrh oil, base note of frankincence- Reminds everyone of Christmas- this oil went down a storm with everyone who has smelled it. On the skin it smells fantastic and lasts a long time
Melinon- This was a surprise- the initial bitter almond smell, became very sweet with a hint of geraniol when infused with the sweet marjoram. The vine leaves inhibited some of this sweetness and balanced it out nicely.
Iasmium- A bit of artistic licence with this one. I successfully obtained some excellent jasmine oil through distillation, and based on the trends from the other perfumes I added sandalwood oil, viola and orris root- The jasmine was still the strongest note but the other ingredients inhibited a little so giving a hint of floral and musk
Susinum- Heavy on the lilies- I used temperate lily of the valley and steered away from the oriental for this. The myrhh again imparted a hint of vanilla. The rose oil came through second but the saffron odour again toned it all down. Lovely bright yellow colour.
Mirtum- Laurem- A lovely surprise. Smells awful in the flask- A bit like wintergreen and turps. Smooth it on the skin, scrape away with a strigil and you get a very pleasant 'dewberry' like odour- a complete enigma as the ingredients bear no resemblance to the odour when applied. This one was very popular! I had to stop a colleague pouring it all over himself
!
Rhodinum- Top blast of frankincence followed by fennel, the rose note keeps vanishing though.
The frankincense and myrrh additives were made using raw resins which were crushed and infused over a low heat over time (not days though, like the ancients, a few hours in my case).
I used a very light fraction olive oil which had been blended with calamus oil and simmered for a few hours.This eliminated the some of the earthyness of the olive oil and helped fix the additives
I don't know how accurate these odours are, but it was a nice experiment and yielded some pleasant results. Who knows, I may have had a genuine sniff of an ancient Pompeian bathhouse. If anyone has any further info which could help, I would be happy to put my labcoat back on and have another go!
Over the last few months I have been busy in my secret laboratory (consisting of kitchen, shed and a proper lab too!) and have attempted to recreate some ancient perfumed oils based on research (and a little artistic licence).
Although I didn't sit there stirring the concoctions day and night as the ancients did, I cheated somewhat with modern steam distillation and other extraction methods and a few handy ready available essential oils.
I had to rely on my 'chemist nose' in order to balance the different notes as I don't have access to actual quantities of each ingredient. I was however pleasantly surprised at how different concoctions balanced out certain odours and gave a completely new odour.
I have managed to create a blend of perfumed oils at present. Here is an overview of what I have created.
Megalion- Top notes of citrus and honey, with a second heavy blast of cinnamon with a slight vanilla like hint which I think comes from the myrrh oil, base note of frankincence- Reminds everyone of Christmas- this oil went down a storm with everyone who has smelled it. On the skin it smells fantastic and lasts a long time
Melinon- This was a surprise- the initial bitter almond smell, became very sweet with a hint of geraniol when infused with the sweet marjoram. The vine leaves inhibited some of this sweetness and balanced it out nicely.
Iasmium- A bit of artistic licence with this one. I successfully obtained some excellent jasmine oil through distillation, and based on the trends from the other perfumes I added sandalwood oil, viola and orris root- The jasmine was still the strongest note but the other ingredients inhibited a little so giving a hint of floral and musk
Susinum- Heavy on the lilies- I used temperate lily of the valley and steered away from the oriental for this. The myrhh again imparted a hint of vanilla. The rose oil came through second but the saffron odour again toned it all down. Lovely bright yellow colour.
Mirtum- Laurem- A lovely surprise. Smells awful in the flask- A bit like wintergreen and turps. Smooth it on the skin, scrape away with a strigil and you get a very pleasant 'dewberry' like odour- a complete enigma as the ingredients bear no resemblance to the odour when applied. This one was very popular! I had to stop a colleague pouring it all over himself
!Rhodinum- Top blast of frankincence followed by fennel, the rose note keeps vanishing though.
The frankincense and myrrh additives were made using raw resins which were crushed and infused over a low heat over time (not days though, like the ancients, a few hours in my case).
I used a very light fraction olive oil which had been blended with calamus oil and simmered for a few hours.This eliminated the some of the earthyness of the olive oil and helped fix the additives
I don't know how accurate these odours are, but it was a nice experiment and yielded some pleasant results. Who knows, I may have had a genuine sniff of an ancient Pompeian bathhouse. If anyone has any further info which could help, I would be happy to put my labcoat back on and have another go!
Memmia AKA Joanne Wenlock.
Friends of Letocetum
Friends of Letocetum
