Make Your Own Rivets

[Peroni]

Aitor,

The ones I have are 4/5mm and 8/9mm recessed.

They do come in various other sizes.

I got mine from the local hardware shop. (I had to order them)

Le Prevo Leather also sell them.
http://leprevo.co.uk/photos/copper_tool.htm

In the US I found..
http://jbee.biz/catalog/default.php?cPa ... c097290500

Regards,

[aitor iriarte]

Thanks, Adrian!
Mmmmh, 4/5 mm are rather on the 'huge' size but useful, anyway... The problem is that they only accept international orders for an amount over GBP 50 !

Aitor

[Peroni]

Aitor,

If you let me know what size you need, I may be able to order one from the same place I bought mine.

Regards,

[aitor iriarte]

Many thanks for your kind offer, Adrian!
I'd need some information first, though...
For example, how many different diameters are available (prices of each one...) and last, but not least, what are those paired 'hole' intended for? Does each tool serve for making two different rivet head sizes?
Sorry for pestering so much... :oops:

Aitor

[Matt Lukes]

Hi Aitor,

Well I hadn't directly thought of offering tools, but I do always say I'll make pretty-much anything, so I suppose I could. The thing is that these aren't proper tool steel and thus probably wouldn't last as long as a commercially-made one (assuming it's well-made and not from China or somewhere). Because of this and because they really are pretty easy to make, the price would be correspondingly low of course.

I have examples of 12 original domed Roman rivets in 7 different segmentata fittings- they vary in diameter from 3.5mm to 5mm (the majority are in the middle at about 4mm), and in height from 1mm to 1.5mm. And, of course, they're not all alike- the shapes aren't perfect, etc. The commercial 1/8" shank rivets I have access to, which I'm pretty sure are a standard shape, have a head that is 5.75mm in diameter and 2.25mm in height. So not only are they above the maxima in the range, but they're 15% and 50% (diameter and height, respectively) above them.

Of course unless you have the chance to handle original pieces, commercial rivets probably won't look at all odd, so that's where the cost savings comes in When you consider that a Corbridge A Lorica segmentata has 302 rivets in it...

Matt

[Nihonius Legio]

Old topic I know, but can someone explain how a rivet is even used? It thought they were a two piece system where both have a rivet head, but the ends are male and femal to fit together (make sense?) I have a stilletto knife that seems to work this way, but I see nothing about a female rivet on this page. Am I wrong? Also, is there a known way to do this without an anvil? (I dont have one) The best I could get is a pice of railroad track, but no hardy hole.

[Magnus]

Hey Jared,

You really need to read Matt Ant's Legio XX Handbook for legionaries thoroughly. It will literally explain not only the types of armour and when they were used, but ALL the tools and supplies required. This should be the first stop for every reenactor, IMHO.

http://www.larp.com/legioxx/hndbk.html (navigation bar is at the top)

The rivets you speak of are the modern equivalent of what the romans used. The types you need for roman reenacting are copper solid shank rivets. That way you can gently tap the end of the shaft and turn it into a mushroom. Thus preventing the hole you put it through from sliding over.

[Nihonius Legio]

so rivets on, say balteus, are just taped in and could be pulled out fairly easily? It's been a while since I read everything on the Leg XX handbook but I guess I need to consult it more often. Thanks though, I'm needing rivets right now to try making a balteus for my halloween costume. (of course I'll need them for a more proper one later on)

[jvrjenivs]

so rivets on, say balteus, are just taped in and could be pulled out fairly easily?

If you would only insert them they would fall out easily, so you've to prevent that by hamering the other end out. Check this topic out also (although it doesn't concern simple rivitting, is shows you what I mean.)
www.romanarmy.com/rat/viewtopic.php?t=24327

[Tarbicus]

You should also check out Jorge's instructions on assembling a belt:
http://www.mambri.com/cosasArmillum/cinturones.html

[Buggnkat]

so rivets on, say balteus, are just taped in and could be pulled out fairly easily? It's been a while since I read everything on the Leg XX handbook but I guess I need to consult it more often. Thanks though, I'm needing rivets right now to try making a balteus for my halloween costume. (of course I'll need them for a more proper one later on)

Jared

Have your tried Tandy Leather? They have copper rivets of all sizes and shapes.

As for pulling out of the rivets, this isnt really done easily if you use a backer (small washer, square piece of metal) to help the back of the rivet when it is spread from striking to hold on to. They can be pulled through, but it will be with GREAT effort to do so.

You can modify the rivets too so that they look more authentic with some creative effort.

Greg

[Matt Lukes]

Old topic I know, but can someone explain how a rivet is even used? It thought they were a two piece system where both have a rivet head, but the ends are male and femal to fit together (make sense?) I have a stilletto knife that seems to work this way, but I see nothing about a female rivet on this page. Am I wrong? Also, is there a known way to do this without an anvil? (I dont have one) The best I could get is a pice of railroad track, but no hardy hole.

A rivet is basically any bit of metal that is passed through a hole in each of two other objects and the ends altered to prevent it coming back out. The two-part rivets you mention are, as Matt said, a modern invention primarily for leather and are are totally unsuitable for anything remotely authentic, so really are to be avoided.

You could use my method to make rivets with just a bit of thick steel (thicker than you make your rivet long) with a hole drilled in it that's larger than your rivet head and place that on your railroad track- it'd do the same job as a hardy hole in an anvil. Of course it'd restrict you to how many you'd make at a time, so might be a touch slow.

Although it seems that more often than not balteus rivets are on the small side, you would do fine with normal 1/8" copper or brass rivets. Make some square (roughly, since the real ones don't appear to have been super-specifically shaped) 'roves' of sheet brass for the back of the belt to peen the ends of the rivets over and you're good. You need a rivet set- just a semicircular divot in a bit of steel you an put in a vise that matches the shape of the rivet head so it's not deformed (but not bigger than the rivet so you don't damage the plate you're working on), and you're good to go. I used an old center punch- ground down the point so it's flat and then with a dremel and a spherical diamond-tipped bit, milled a divot.

[Nihonius Legio]

You should also check out Jorge's instructions on assembling a belt:
http://www.mambri.com/cosasArmillum/cinturones.html

Those were some amazingly simple yet effective instructions and answered my question fully. Thanks you Tarbicus and everyone else who answered this. I may be able to get the tools for this today and start working! (I already have the hammer, yay!)

[Magnus]

Have no fear Jared, we've all been right where you were...so trust us, once you start making your own gear and learning it totally becomes an addiction! (a good one of course)

[Nihonius Legio]

Today I bought alot of materials for rivet making (not quite the right sze of wire), and other things. I also found some metal bits from railroad tracks (unnecessary ones ) to use as a cheap anvil.
I'm excited to take some time tommorow and work on my balteus.