05-29-2010, 03:51 AM
Hi All,
So first thing, these photos show a fairly experimental approach to constructing the officer's subarmalis that we see on the statues, sculptures, etc.
After studying photographs of the sculptures, I have found nothing to exclude the possibility of the subarmalis being (mainly) a pleated garment. In most images complete separation of pteruges (from end to hip) only seems to occur within the front 10 inches of the garment. The few images I have found of pteruges from the back show them hanging straight, looking very much like the box pleats on a kilt. One exception is the portrait of Hadrian (I think), which shows the garment splayed out like a fan since his knees are bent as he sits upon his horse. I think both kinds of pteruges can coexist in one garment if the separated ones are in the front apron while the rest (which wraps around the hips, back, and to the front again) remain connected. This might also help to understand better why we see so many layers of pteruges without the bulking of fabric that would happen if you were to sew three or four layers of individually constructed 'flaps' onto each other. Pleat construction easily handles the gradual tapering from hips to waist by taking up fabric in the hidden under pleats. If there is not enough slack to be taken up in the under pleats, the over pleats can overlap very much like what we see on the hips of Augustus (prima porta). The shoulder pteruges are another point I've tried to recreate, since just about every example I have found shows them going all the way around the arm like a sleeve does. Let me also say that I don't believe there was one and only one method of constructing these. Even following the steps I have taken, there is room for a *lot* of variation.
The construction is fairly simple. It just requires a lot of sewing along the pleat lines which must be drawn out before hand. The pleats which show on the outside of the garment are all 2 inches. Between each outer pleat is the inner pleat, which requires 3 5/8 inches. The inner pleat is not brought together when sewing so that the tapering in to the waistline doesn't bulk up. To make this garment I used a single 14 foot of 8-10oz 60" wide fabric. I know I won't win any points for it but I used cotton duck canvas because I got a deal on it and I didn't want to spend a bunch of money on expensive linen if I didn't even know if this would work :wink:
I should also mention that this is not finished. I plan to make a second garment which goes over this which will have another level of pteruges which come to mid-thigh (such as on the facilis stele). I'm not sure about the material yet or how it should be constructed. If you see some rough edges in the pictures below it's because I'm holding off on the fastening and edge finishing until I have the over layer worked out.
If any of you are wondering about the protective qualities, I'm not sure. I can say that the fabric is 8-10 ounces in weight and that the pleating causes there to be at least three layers on the back and sides. The front of course gets doubled over, so you wind up with six layers from the neckline to the hem and about 10 inches across (although the overlap can be made greater). The defensive quality of the pteruges is debatable I suppose.
I'll be happy to post a diagram of the pattern if anybody is interested. Meanwhile, I think the photos below can explain better what I'm trying to describe.
I realize this is a bit of a departure from the excellent subarmalis reconstructions I've seen from this group, so I'm hoping this sparks some good conversation. Let me know your thoughts guys!
--Kelsey
[attachment=909]Subarmalis-01.jpg[/attachment]
[attachment=910]Subarmalis-03.jpg[/attachment]
[attachment=911]Subarmalis-04.jpg[/attachment]
[attachment=912]Subarmalis-07.jpg[/attachment]
[attachment=913]Subarmalis-09.jpg[/attachment]
[attachment=914]Subarmalis-15.jpg[/attachment]
[attachment=915]Subarmalis-20.jpg[/attachment]
[attachment=916]Subarmalis-27.jpg[/attachment]
[attachment=917]Subarmalis-35.jpg[/attachment]
[attachment:10]Subarmalis - 40.jpg[/attachment]
So first thing, these photos show a fairly experimental approach to constructing the officer's subarmalis that we see on the statues, sculptures, etc.
After studying photographs of the sculptures, I have found nothing to exclude the possibility of the subarmalis being (mainly) a pleated garment. In most images complete separation of pteruges (from end to hip) only seems to occur within the front 10 inches of the garment. The few images I have found of pteruges from the back show them hanging straight, looking very much like the box pleats on a kilt. One exception is the portrait of Hadrian (I think), which shows the garment splayed out like a fan since his knees are bent as he sits upon his horse. I think both kinds of pteruges can coexist in one garment if the separated ones are in the front apron while the rest (which wraps around the hips, back, and to the front again) remain connected. This might also help to understand better why we see so many layers of pteruges without the bulking of fabric that would happen if you were to sew three or four layers of individually constructed 'flaps' onto each other. Pleat construction easily handles the gradual tapering from hips to waist by taking up fabric in the hidden under pleats. If there is not enough slack to be taken up in the under pleats, the over pleats can overlap very much like what we see on the hips of Augustus (prima porta). The shoulder pteruges are another point I've tried to recreate, since just about every example I have found shows them going all the way around the arm like a sleeve does. Let me also say that I don't believe there was one and only one method of constructing these. Even following the steps I have taken, there is room for a *lot* of variation.
The construction is fairly simple. It just requires a lot of sewing along the pleat lines which must be drawn out before hand. The pleats which show on the outside of the garment are all 2 inches. Between each outer pleat is the inner pleat, which requires 3 5/8 inches. The inner pleat is not brought together when sewing so that the tapering in to the waistline doesn't bulk up. To make this garment I used a single 14 foot of 8-10oz 60" wide fabric. I know I won't win any points for it but I used cotton duck canvas because I got a deal on it and I didn't want to spend a bunch of money on expensive linen if I didn't even know if this would work :wink:
I should also mention that this is not finished. I plan to make a second garment which goes over this which will have another level of pteruges which come to mid-thigh (such as on the facilis stele). I'm not sure about the material yet or how it should be constructed. If you see some rough edges in the pictures below it's because I'm holding off on the fastening and edge finishing until I have the over layer worked out.
If any of you are wondering about the protective qualities, I'm not sure. I can say that the fabric is 8-10 ounces in weight and that the pleating causes there to be at least three layers on the back and sides. The front of course gets doubled over, so you wind up with six layers from the neckline to the hem and about 10 inches across (although the overlap can be made greater). The defensive quality of the pteruges is debatable I suppose.
I'll be happy to post a diagram of the pattern if anybody is interested. Meanwhile, I think the photos below can explain better what I'm trying to describe.
I realize this is a bit of a departure from the excellent subarmalis reconstructions I've seen from this group, so I'm hoping this sparks some good conversation. Let me know your thoughts guys!
--Kelsey
[attachment=909]Subarmalis-01.jpg[/attachment]
[attachment=910]Subarmalis-03.jpg[/attachment]
[attachment=911]Subarmalis-04.jpg[/attachment]
[attachment=912]Subarmalis-07.jpg[/attachment]
[attachment=913]Subarmalis-09.jpg[/attachment]
[attachment=914]Subarmalis-15.jpg[/attachment]
[attachment=915]Subarmalis-20.jpg[/attachment]
[attachment=916]Subarmalis-27.jpg[/attachment]
[attachment=917]Subarmalis-35.jpg[/attachment]
[attachment:10]Subarmalis - 40.jpg[/attachment]
Kelsey McLeod