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Real Deal Spolas
#1
Lots of hot air about spolioi and linen armour.  First the spolas.  I will make this one:


[Image: Vase1.jpeg]
[Image: search?ei=sb0YWt_WLNPwjwPC3K_IBg&q=linot...EPBuSPq2M:]

1.  Elk hide (because I knew hides would be big and thick, sight unseen), soaked in water with a little bleach and nailed down to dry flat on a plywood board:

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Welcome to my little friend --oil emulsion casein..  A gallon of chalk white on the way.

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https://www.amazon.com/Sinopia-Natural-A...ite+casein

I've developed a typology based on whether or not the Tube & Yoke armour depicted is composed of four panels around the torso (made of hide), or continuous --made with twining (as can be seen in the warp ends of ptyreges) or possibly layers of linen cloth in some cases. Where there are scales, those sections have a lrather backing, and the scales could be of painted hide, bronze or iron.
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#2
We need to see a pic of you wearing it, complete with the obligatory goolies hanging out underneath. Smile
Author: Bronze Age Military Equipment, Pen & Sword Books
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#3
(11-25-2017, 10:16 AM)Dan Howard Wrote: We need to see a pic of you wearing it, complete with the obligatory goolies hanging out underneath. Smile

I promise!  Big Grin
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#4
(11-25-2017, 02:14 PM)Feinman Wrote:
(11-25-2017, 10:16 AM)Dan Howard Wrote: We need to see a pic of you wearing it, complete with the obligatory goolies hanging out underneath. Smile

I promise!  Big Grin

Will you use any Egyptian Natron in this process?
Joe Balmos
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#5
Hi Joe,
Not necessary although if there were bits of fat etc. --I might want to scrub that off with baking soda and a little salt. But the hide is nice and clean, and the bleach water kills off bacteria as well as making the hide more "basic" and durable so that the acidity of the oil in the paint emulsion is neutralized a bit. The goal is to get a nice bond between casein paint and hide. I have two large hides, and the piece in pic is about 1/3 to half of one of those.
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#6
(11-25-2017, 04:18 PM)Feinman Wrote: Hi Joe,
Not necessary although if there were bits of fat etc.  --I might want to scrub that off with baking soda and a little salt.  But the hide is nice and clean, and the bleach water kills off bacteria as well as making the hide more "basic" and durable so that the acidity of the oil in the paint emulsion is neutralized a bit.   The goal is to get a nice bond between casein paint and hide.  I have two large hides, and the piece in pic is about 1/3 to half of one of those.

Also, note on the pic where the dude's "manhood" is located or as the esteemed Dan calls them "goolies." Far too many well made linos and spola are too long.

Are you making those scales?
Joe Balmos
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#7
(11-25-2017, 04:58 PM)Creon01 Wrote:
(11-25-2017, 04:18 PM)Feinman Wrote: Hi Joe,
Not necessary although if there were bits of fat etc.  --I might want to scrub that off with baking soda and a little salt.  But the hide is nice and clean, and the bleach water kills off bacteria as well as making the hide more "basic" and durable so that the acidity of the oil in the paint emulsion is neutralized a bit.   The goal is to get a nice bond between casein paint and hide.  I have two large hides, and the piece in pic is about 1/3 to half of one of those.

Also, note on the pic where the dude's "manhood" is located or as the esteemed Dan calls them "goolies." Far too many well made linos and spola are too long.

Are you making those scales?

Yeah, the two side panels will be goat leather with painted elk hide scales.  The torso armour ends at the navel and the ptyreges (made of painted hide) will cover the nether territories Smile
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#8
Quote:Also, note on the pic where the dude's "manhood" is located or as the esteemed Dan calls them "goolies." Far too many well made linos and spola are too long.

Yep. The rigid part of the armour stops at the navel just like a metal cuirass. The pteryges cover the abdomen and stomach, not the thighs. They were meant to facilitate bending at the waist.
Author: Bronze Age Military Equipment, Pen & Sword Books
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#9
I am waiting for casein to arrive. Today I'll trim up a piece of hide big enough for the yoke and put it in shower with bleach water in spray bottle, and nail it to back of plywood to dry. The piece I just dried is nice and perfectly flat and smooth. I'm thinking three layers on the front and two on back panel, two for yoke. This stuff is INCREDIBLY tough.
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#10
Here's a proposition that Dan H. got me thinking about.. The ptyreges on spolioi (which I am designating depictions with four torso panels, usually a solid front and back panel, with a panel of sca!es on each side), are very short, ending at the genitals, while depictions of ptyreges on T&Y linen armour (usually twined with the warp cords often showing at the ends of the ptyreges, and continuous, NOT in panels) are longer and can extend to mid-thigh.. WHY? BECAUSE the ptyreges on the spolioi are made from fairly stiff hide, just as the rest of the cuirass is. Neither are they shown flexing much. Look closely for yourselves..I will post pics a bit later of examples. Try and prove me wrong with a depiction..
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#11
Been scrutinizing the armour to be made, and I see a tooled hide edging sandwiching the three hide layers of the front together.  It has an "egg and dart" pattern like architectural moulding.  the bottom of the breastplate also has the edging.  Typically on these spolioi, you can see a near-medial strip, near the yoke fastening hardware.  This strip, I very strongly suspect incorporates stitching, that further holds the layers together, and prevents warping.  I will make the strip depicted in tooled hide, and incorporate the stitching.

[Image: Vase1.jpeg]

Neato thing, get spattered with blood? just wipe off and repaint area! armour gets damaged? Just undo edging and insert new plate!
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#12
Okay, paint arrived early! Now to restretch hides one last time and apply first layer of two of paint! Pics pretty soon.
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#13
I've scrubbed the first coat into the hides with a foam brush.  There is basically no surface buildup at all, and thr casein is one with the hide.  The hide will tighten even more as the casein dries.  The second coat will make it appear to be perfect snow white.  Need to let this layer cure for few hours then I can apply second coat.  Did same to hide nailed to back of the board.  It may not look it because of the splotchy first layer, The hide is incredibly smooth.

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#14
Okay, dried quickly huder sucked it up!  PERFECT.  Applied second coat to this piece:

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Everything working much better than expected.  So I will flip board and add second coat to the other piece.  When these sides have dried, I will flip them over and paint back.  Casein and hide or leather are well known for their ability to bond.  Yeah!!
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#15
Folks, I'm suggesting that the depictions with panels are are made of hide (not leather), and the ptyreges on those end at the genitals because they are somewhat stiff, ALL of those are shown not flexing and the same length.  Those depictions where the torso armour is continuous, often are shown with longer, flexible ptyreges (Alex. Mosaic etc.).  Those examples are twined.  Where scales are shown, they are attached to a flexible backing, probably goat leather.  One of the reasons for scale panels is flexibility. Here is an example where the ptyreges are one with the front panel, and the side panels overlap.  Note the short ptyreges again:

[Image: c0c294bb0eaa4d97c1fd6496358b0cd2.jpg]
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