What are the average dimensions of the pilum?

[Gaius Julius Caesar]

OK single pin it is..... sounds like super glue is required!
It seems like ashame to wast these hand forged nails tho'.....

How long will it be before mine are done Matt?

[Matt Lukes]

Thanks for that info, Matt. Now that they've discovered that "super glue" on the helmet, I wonder if they used a similar formula elsewhere. It would only make sense.

What gauge metal would you think good for a buttspike, in mild steel sheet? What gauge did they use in iron? I've had no real trouble with 16, except sometimes when the spike is hit down into hard ground, it tends to open up a little, below where the wood ends.

Well so far the glue theory is just that- a theory; to many of us the formulation sounds just as much like a backing pitch to protect the repousse decoration from dents as it does an adhesive- even moreso actually. They'll have to prove it's a glue. As it is, there were lots of things that could be used as adhesives, pitch as I suggested, for example, so 'super glue' is hardly necessary for buttspikes. Glue in general isn't vital- at least I've never found it so. In the past I've found even 18ga. steel to work when heated red hot to form and quenched. A little cold hammering doesn't hurt either.

And there's no need to use any nails you have Byron, I'll be making pins to go with the pilum shanks and buttspikes I'm making for you. I'll let you know when they're done- it'll be a few weeks yet.

[Gaius Julius Caesar]

Thanks Matt. Actually, I meant the ones I already have, which have hand forged nails. But I will be looking forward to getting yours!

[Latinitas]

Thanks for the reactions .

And, to prevent a misunderstand, the length of the wooden shaft (4 - 5 foot) in INCLUSIVE the big pyramid?

If I know this, I can forge him D

[Latinitas]

Thanks for the reactions .

And, to prevent a misunderstand, the length of the wooden shaft (4 - 5 foot) in INCLUSIVE the big pyramid?

If I know this, I can forge him D

And by the way: I think it is clever to varnish the wooden part with linseed oil. I read on the internet that you have to boil it before using. I know you have more versions of it (yellow and brown linseed oil). Who knows how I have to treat the linseed oil so it is suitable to protect the wood?

Something completely different: Who knows the percentage of carbon of the iron shaft?

Sorry for my English :oops:

[Hibernicus]

You can buy "boiled" linseed oil.

But, there is no need for "boiled" linseed on a pilum shaft.

to clarity.. "boiled" linseed oil dries faster and tends to dry less tacky.

From flax seed BTW.

[Robert]

Salve Latinitas!

Iron in Roman days was mostly low on carbon. You can use "staal 37" for most of your projects and still be a bit above the carbon of the Roman iron billets. Quenching in water will return the initial hardness, no need for things like tempering, as with higher carbon tool grade steels for instance. They get too brittle when you quench them in water and need tempering to take some of the brittleness out. The Roman did have higher carbon steel for blades, but these were expensive, so for pila, you are safe with any low carbon steel from a workshop or ironmonger. If not sure as to the carbon content, hold a piece to a grinder. High carbon steel will spark more and has a distinct "burning iron" smell when you grind it.

[Latinitas]

Thanks

[Robert]

Another thing on fitting a shank to a shaft. I have noticed then when I forge the shanks, the inside is somewhat uneven/rough and the shank never fits the tapered wood (I taper using fire, burning it to a nice taper and hardening the wood in the proces). Because of the metal not overlapping, it tends to grip the wood very well when tapped down onto it (wooden mallet!) and the single nail just prevents it riding up and losing its grip.