M. Dem\'s Calceus

[Martin Moser]

Hi Filip,

Well I'm new to roman shoemaking (infact I'm new to all Roma :wink: n stuff)
I made a little Calceus to try the methode

Looks very good, looking forward to see more from you! :-) )

[Martin Moser]

Hi Dave,

First version of the lasts are made.

Good work. Make sure to check the measurements (cirdumferences especially) at a couple of points to make sure about the fit. Also, for easier unlasting (if that is the right word?) make the last a two-piece one.

[Sutoris]

Hi Filip,
Looks very good, looking forward to see more from you! :-) )

Thanks Martin,
The calceus sole is nailed, not stiched.
Never made a shoe that quick, clever guys these Romans :wink:

Here's the next one, it's from Stepping throug Time, no details.
The sole is tunnel stiched, no nails.
How would you call this type of shoe?

[Sutoris]

First version of the lasts are made. I should have the felt by tonight.

Hi Dave,
nice job.
I only have medieval lasts so I have to lift up my lazy bum and make some Roman lasts
I don't like to work with felt for the model, I find it to stretchy.
Have good results with tape, if you tried it once you never go back to felt.
It's faster and much cheaper to
I posted the methode some days ago on this topic

[M. Demetrius]

Felt is stretchy, and you have to be careful with it. But when you take it apart (if you have made corrections) it doesn't unravel like a woven cloth would. However, cloth plus a layer of tape would make a nice pattern. I have a bunch of felt here from a project that got cancelled, so it's not a cost issue. I don't have any other use for it but dust collector, and heck, anything can collect dust. Anyway, the felt model fits fine.

Martin: You're completely right about the two piece. I can see the dynamics of that without even trying it. I'll give it a hit with the saw. I noticed on your paper pattern that you had evidently added a little arch across the vamp by angling the vamp to the counter. I did the same thing, because that allows for lengthening the ankle straps. Otherwise, they are the same length on one side as the circumference of the leg, and that's not what we're after. Did I correctly guess your method? Anyway, it works.

Sewing begins today. The lasts need a fine tuning to match the curve of the soles more exactly, but that is just seconds. Good old angle grinder!

[Martin Moser]

I noticed on your paper pattern that you had evidently added a little arch across the vamp by angling the vamp to the counter. I did the same thing, because that allows for lengthening the ankle straps. Otherwise, they are the same length on one side as the circumference of the leg, and that's not what we're after. Did I correctly guess your method? Anyway, it works.

If I understand you correctly, yes. Looking forward to see how you progress!

[Martin Moser]

Hi Filip,

Here's the next one, it's from Stepping throug Time, no details.
The sole is tunnel stiched, no nails.
How would you call this type of shoe?

Nowadays it is called a calceus, since it is a closed shoe with seperate upper that doesn't form a complete midsole (like it is the case with the caligae e.g.). It is a find from Hardknott / Mediobogdum (Literature: Charlesworth, Dorothy, J.H. Thornton. Leather Found in Mediobogdum, the Roman Fort of Hardknott. Britannia IV 1973: 141-152. pl. xxi-xxiii) btw., dated to mid 2nd century AD. You left out a few details as I can see, but the character of the shoe comes out nicely. Actually I have just started to work on that shoe as well :-) )

Also, may I suggest you open a new thread for presenting your work, so as not to hijack Dave's here?

[Sutoris]

Sorry Dave :oops:

[M. Demetrius]

No problem, Flip. Nailed the first shoe to the last and was beginning the stitchdown, and realized the leather I'd selected for the insole was much too hard for the curved needles I had, and a curved awl made from a nail was not useful. Have an event to deal with, and will get back on the shoes next week. It's easy enough to make a separate thread for your shoes if you want. It does make things easier for those who find these later.

Looks like you do pretty darned good shoe work. Glad to see it.

More later. Gotta run, pack the van, hit the road....

[Magnus]

Dave, depending how close you are to the edge of the leather....can you drill a 1/16" hole on an angle through the requisite pieces of leather, then sew?

[M. Demetrius]

Matt, no, a drill won't do it. I'm at this phase (photo shamelessly lifted from Martin's thread)

[M. Demetrius]

Magnus, no, a drill won't do it. I'm at this phase (photo shamelessly lifted from Martin's thread). I did buy some curved needles at the Leather Factory, but they are round shank needles, and won't force their way through the inner sole. I'll need some needles like Lee suggested. Might find some today when I head into town for some errands.

[Martin Moser]

Hi Dave,

don't know if that helps, but I don't really use that uch of a curved awl - look at the one at the top of the picture:



Also, you could try to thoroughly wet the insole with water with a brush around where you need to pierce it in order to soften it. Same as for the outer sole, basically.

[Sutoris]

Hi Dave,
I'm using the same awl as Martin for almost eight years now.
When piercing the leather with this awl you should use a sinuous or wobbling motion.
And keep the awl sharp!
Do you strop?

[M. Demetrius]

I think that slight curve might do the job, but the stitch lines run more or less at a 90 degree angle to the edge of the sole, not along the long axis, don't they? Or did I misinterpret the photo?

Yep, stropping with polishing compound once a smooth tip is on an awl makes it much sharper and easier to penetrate whatever, including your finger. I know about that one. Ow.