Experimental Pleated Subarmalis Construction

[L_CORNELIUS_CETHEGUS]

Hi there,

Yes the seams are sewn with a sewing machine and are visible--due to the low thread count of the weave, though, they aren't too bad to look at

This was kind of a concept project to see if it was possible to create what I saw taking the pleated construction approach. I remember when I was in India seeing a lot of traditional Indian clothing on sculpture from the 2nd-5th centuries that bore a strong resemblance to classical Greek/Roman art. Even in modern dress, sari, dhoti, lungi, and even turbans are simply pleated to achieve their shape. Under all those amazing pleats and folds it is just one big square or rectangle, straight off the loom with selvaged edges.

This project has been shelved for me for a while now. If I was to do another though, I think it would be a lot easier in two parts. For me it was very difficult trying to keep the pleats running straight up from knee to neck :| The more cylindrical your shape, the easier it is. Otherwise, when your diameter goes in and out over your hips and torso, the inner pleats have to give or take the extra couple inches.

Here are a few pictures (without me in it) to maybe give you a better sense of the construction

Thanks for your interest in the project!

--Kelsey

[Magnus]

Thanks a ton Kelsey. I was wondering, could the pleated pteryges be made separate from the upper part of the garment, then attached to whatever a person was using for a subarmalis?

[L_CORNELIUS_CETHEGUS]

Hi Magnus,

I've gone back and forth wondering if these were two-piece or one-piece garments (or even that both types might have been around). If a two-piece, I just figured it would hang on the hips like a skirt, and the garment would either taper at the waist or be gathered. If the fabric is heavy, gathering could be a pain. Taking the Augustus Prima Porta as the prototype, I see what I interpret to be overlapping box pleats at the hips. They look a lot like knife pleats there, but I think they're probably box pleats. Anyway, we never see how far up that garment goes, so it may be possible that it ends at the waist with a couple ties or a fibula. At that point, the upper garment would be independent of the pteryges (in my mind, sort of a vest tucked in or hanging over them).

I guess a good counter argument in favor of the one-piece idea is the depictions of victory spoils/tropaea which seem to show it all together with the 'sleeve' that goes over the torso. These depictions are so idealized though it's hard to tell whether they are meant to represent anything real at all.

--Kelsey

[markusaurelius]

Great thread to revive. It seems like such a simple and straight forward concept, and also looks very good when compared to what evidence we have. The Romans liked the simple usually, just look at the Tunic, which was made from one piece of fabric as well. Simply pleating a square piece of fabric seems like the most efficient!

[markusaurelius]

Found this Hi Res image of the Valentinian statute. The shape on the pteryges at both hte sleeves and waist look very much like pleats. How the pteryges each bows inward under the weight/pull of the pleat border stitching..... A heavier weight fabric would also do this more I would suspect.


[attachment=3567]valentinian-statue.jpg[/attachment]