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Milk Paint Mixture
#1
When using Milk Paint, is it a 50-50 mixture of paint powder and water, and what is the drying time? Antoninus
Michael T. Boyd
Victoria, Texas
Cohort V
Legio Hispana IX
Cornuti Seniores

Roman Soldier Impressions are focused on 1st Through 4th Century AD
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#2
Gosh, trying to remember. Naturally it will vary with temperature and humidity. But I seem to recall one time that we were able to do a second coat in about an hour. Though I don't know if that was a 50/50 mix, or thinner or thicker. I have seen the paint dry in a crackly sort of finish, but that might have been too thick a mixture, or maybe the second coat applied too soon? Keep in mind that this stuff (at least the "Old Fashioned" brand) includes lime, so it's not just drying but actually setting like cement. That can't really be rushed. (And it won't wash out of your clothes!)

If it came with an information sheet, that may have more details that you need.

Happy painting!

Matthew
Matthew Amt (Quintus)
Legio XX, USA
<a class="postlink" href="http://www.larp.com/legioxx/">http://www.larp.com/legioxx/
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#3
Thanks Matthew, I've got a practice for Lafe tomorrow, but I just finished fabricating my Hardware for sling carrier and also fit on my Lonely Mountain Forge Steel Boss, so now I need to paint the back(as it is blue) and then nail the brass trim on. If it isn't ready, no biggie, but I was trying to get a time frame, Mike
Michael T. Boyd
Victoria, Texas
Cohort V
Legio Hispana IX
Cornuti Seniores

Roman Soldier Impressions are focused on 1st Through 4th Century AD
Reply
#4
I painted my crest box with the milk paint brand that Matt mentioned. I think that I waited about 20 minutes before adding the second coat. However, I think an hour would be best. My results were rather good with the 20 minutes.

It also depends on the surface. The wood absorbed lots of the water within the paint which makes it dry faster. I also painted some scutum decoration with milk paint and it only took something like 10 minutes before the second coat was applied. Again the leather probably absorbed the water in the paint.

If something is flexible, it has been my experience that thick or thin, it will crack. Hard surfaces are much more resistant to cracking. I have rather thick paint on my crestbox. However, if I bump the box somewhere, it will chip off like old dry paint.

I cannot say it is true for everyone or everything but thus far these have been my experiences. Attached is the pic of my tegimen tabula ansata.


Attached Files Thumbnail(s)
   
"You have to laugh at life or else what are you going to laugh at?" (Joseph Rosen)


Paolo
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#5
The back does not have to match the front! In fact we know some shield backs were highly decorated. Also, if the surface is already painted with a modern paint, you may have problems with the milk paint adhering properly. It might work fine, but they do sell an additive called "Extra-bond" or something, to help it stick to old paint like that. But heck, if it's not a horribly modern color, I'd be inclined to just leave it as is.

I put a little milk paint on a scrap of linen a few years back. It's been kicking around my workshop ever since, and whenever I run across it I give it a crumple and a shake. And the paint is NOT FLAKING. Not cracking or anything. I'm impressed and befuddled! It might have been just a thinner mixture, soaking into the fabric rather than stuck to the surface, but I'd have no qualms about doing a vexillum with milk paint.

Valete,

Matthew
Matthew Amt (Quintus)
Legio XX, USA
<a class="postlink" href="http://www.larp.com/legioxx/">http://www.larp.com/legioxx/
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#6
I will definitely make my vexillum that way.

I agree Matt that the paint did soak into the fabric and has become part of its weave. With the leather, I tried it evey way and it has some cracks as you can see from the photo. However, it does not flake off at all.
"You have to laugh at life or else what are you going to laugh at?" (Joseph Rosen)


Paolo
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#7
I painted the back side of my Scutum with red milk paint Friday (as it was blue)and used the Extra Bond additive with the first coat as instructed. Because of the extra bond mixture(which you don't add to the paint in the second coat), the second coat really covered well and looks great. I highly recommend using the Extra Bond in the first coat and the paint did dry quickly, even though I gave it more than the required two hours between coats, Antoninus
Michael T. Boyd
Victoria, Texas
Cohort V
Legio Hispana IX
Cornuti Seniores

Roman Soldier Impressions are focused on 1st Through 4th Century AD
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#8
I make no claims to being an expert on this, but I'm not sure we really know with certainty what the "standard color" (if such existed) on the FRONT of shields was, let alone the back side. It wouldn't bother me a bit to have a different color on the back. What color is the back of the Dura Europa scutum? I've only ever seen pictures of the front (and marvelled at the detail and complexity of the design).

I will probably continue with red/barn red background color on the fronts, though, as that seems to be the larger consensus. Should we use the Notitia Dignitatum as a guide? Aren't there different background colors on that list?
M. Demetrius Abicio
(David Wills)

Saepe veritas est dura.
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