Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
Personalizing a Linothorax
#61
Just bought one from Velvet Glove, will let folks know how it comes out and will put pics up once I get it, then how it comes along after I am done personalizing it. Great suggestions on here for that by the way.
John Tibbs
Reply
#62
Good afternoon, all.

I'll introduce myself first. I'm Hermann (from Canada) and I currently do early Kievan Rus and Zaporozhian (Ukrainian) cossack impressions. I want to get into classical Greek era hoplite reenactment, and possibly Mycenaean era reenactment later on.

Seeing that this is already a thread on linothorax design, I would like to ask a question: What do you think of animal skins, bones, teeth, and furs being used for decoration on the armour? I've had plenty of difficulty trying to determine what degree the ancient Greeks used animal parts for armour. This disappoints me because Greek history has always been an area of great interest. If there is anyone out there with some input, I'll greatly appreciate your help.

Cheers,


HK
Reply
#63
My first inclination regarding use of bones, teeth and furs as armor decoration is "no, not used".

I went digging. You can access the Beasley vase database at Oxford (google) and search for warrior images. I didn't see any images that would support BT&F decoration. By convention, Heracles wears a lionskin (and carries a club); Athena is usually depicted with Zeus' aegis (wooly or skin with snakes & Medusa head).

I expect bone could be used for buttons/toggles. BT&F seems to denote "not-Greek" - Centaurs, satyrs, barbarians and semi-mythical creatures of all sorts. Also the lower classes - shepherds, peasants...

I can remember seeing images with fleeced-torsoed warriors, but I can't remember where (RAT topic?) and I think they were archaic as opposed to classical or Hellenistic warriors - very early.

A leather spolas was about it. Bronzy-brassy bling for the most part. Oh yeah, horse hair crests were used.

HTH. The Beasley is a great archive to get lost in for half a day or more.
Cheryl Boeckmann
Reply
#64
If you adjust your impression to being a barbarian then as a thrakian you get to wear soft boots with (I think) fox skin lappets hanging down from the tops, though equally they may be goat. Also Phrygian caps could be made from a variety of skins and look quite beautifully feral.
The shield may be covered in rawhide.

Of course if u went bronze age you can make a helmet from boars tusks. Stephen Pressfield in his novel "The Afghan Campaign" (set in the time of Alexander) does have of his characters wearing one of these. ie it would be a novelty, possibly as a hunters cap?? but with no extant archaeology to back it for the period.

On the Show your greek hoplite impression thread there is a hoplite who does have skins lining/ edging his tube and yoke corselet. It does look great.

Have fun
regards
Richard
Reply
#65
Noted. I'll be sure to keep these factors in mind. Thanks, all.
Reply
#66
Just so you guys know that your advice has not gone to waste, I have decided on "Thracianizing" my linothorax once it arrives. I will be a Thracian hoplite. The first layer is made of armour-grade leather (seems to be bullhide, though I'll need to see once it's here) while the two outer layers are linen. The shoulder guards and frill (pteruges, yes?) are also leather. There is also a blue wool trimming on some edges.

What would you guys say about rabbit furs in regards to commonly used Thracian attire? Being a hunter in Canada, I have access to an array of furry critters, so I'd say rabbit isn't the only option, but it is the least expensive to harvest. Or how about sea shells and their ilk? It almost seems like this will take a bit of experimenting.

I also checked out The Beasley. It's wonderful.
Reply
#67
Hermann, I'll admit I know little of the Thracian hoplite, however this website may interest you. About a 1/3 of the way down you can see the Spolas Bill made will leopard skin:

http://www.thehoplites.com/The_Goat_s_Pen.html

Just check out the website in general, Bill has spared no expense on his kit, including a gorgeous etched helmet
Quintus Furius Collatinus

-Matt
Reply
#68
It's quite alright, Matt. We're all here to learn more.

Otherwise, thanks for the information and link.
Reply
#69
So buttons and/or rings to attach the shoulder section to the chest: what would you guys suggest? I see lots of ornate lion heads and such but can't seem to find anything online or in stores in my area.
Reply
#70
The buttons on my retired lino (see avatar) were cast bronze/brass? buttons used to make the decorations on the "danglies" of a roman belt. The buttons could spin but were peened over washers on the inside.

My new leather spolas has tie-downs and buttons. The tie-downs are part of some saddlery/tack hardware. I will try to find the website again. I'll get back to you...

OK. The tie-downs are called post-style lacing dees. Mine are brass (plated?). They are the small ones. I may have got them from Zack White Leather or perhaps on ebay. You can search for a good source now that you know what to call them. If you can do metal work, you might want to make your own.
Cheryl Boeckmann
Reply
#71
Thanks Areias, ordered some up from Zack White Leather and they look great! My next question is painting. What kind of paint would you suggest using on already glued linen? It's pretty much a canvas, would acrylic work just fine? I'm planning on doing a pattern around the waste(where the pteruges begin) and another across the upper chest.
Reply
#72
My old white lino was painted (by the maker) with white flat housepaint (waterbase)! The first owner painted the trim with an unknown paint. When I did my shield, I looked into theatrical casein (milk-based) paint, Milk-Paint, and encaustic paint. I ended up using acrylics - but only colors that would have been available to the ancients - no Prussian blue! I also clear-coated the paint with a matte spray (shhhhh!) to give a bit of protection to the paint job. If you do use acrylics, base coat it with some thinned down gesso to give it something to bond to (and not soak in unevenly). Good luck!
Cheryl Boeckmann
Reply
#73
If using art/craft store acrylics, then you've made the decision that "absolute authentic" is not an adjective you put at the top of the list. On many things, I do that. If you're painting cloth, there is a brand of stain-covering water-base primer called KILZ. Painting colors of acrylic on top works very well. KILZ seals what you paint it on, is a little lower viscosity than regular wall paint, so it will remain more flexible. It's a great product, and an excellent transition from cloth to finish paint.

http://www.kilz.com/primer/v/index.jsp?v...05d103RCRD.
M. Demetrius Abicio
(David Wills)

Saepe veritas est dura.
Reply


Forum Jump: