Quote:Also have a look in: Grew and Griffiths, The Pre-Flavian Military Belt - The Evidence From Britain, Antiquaries Journal, 1991.
Crispvs
I checked the article - it is actually in Archaeologia. As is the case with the Vindonissa Katalog, the article lists several "bullseye" plates, but all of them differ from this particular reproduction.
M. CVRIVS ALEXANDER (Alexander Kyrychenko) LEG XI CPF
That's ok...most of my belt plates are romanish bullseye designs...When I had the stamp and die made up in 2001 I didn't have the resources we do now. Wish I did!
____________________________________________________________ Magnus/Matt
Du Courage Viens La Verité
Quote:That's ok...most of my belt plates are romanish bullseye designs...When I had the stamp and die made up in 2001 I didn't have the resources we do now. Wish I did!
Hey, same here, brother! My first and only belt so far has that design too. Well, like with everything else, we learn as we go.
M. CVRIVS ALEXANDER (Alexander Kyrychenko) LEG XI CPF
"I checked the article - it is actually in Archaeologia."
Ahem :oops: - I must learn to check my references rather than simply remembering things off the top of my head when posting at the time of night when I should really be keeping the neighbours awake with the pleasant sound of snoring. Sorry. :oops:
Crispvs
Who is called \'\'Paul\'\' by no-one other than his wife, parents and brothers. :!: <img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_exclaim.gif" alt=":!:" title="Exclamation" />:!:
Jay.
There is a very good example of plain flat beltplates when we look at the ones found at Velsen, these in fact had been silvered however it becomes evident that the soldier who had recently got himself a nice new dagger had the plates up graded by having silver sheet applied to them.
In fact there is an even more revealing situation about this belt, where the plates had been fitted with bellcaps and then when the up grade was done the removal of the bellcaps resulted in them having to be reversed to refit the plates after the silver sheet had been applied.
Hello again, now I have a prototype of a belt plate of only one simple design I've managed to achieve nicely! With non-scrap brass and...a little more love, I think I could make quite a nice set! Now I must ask, two questions... One...are there allowed to be a variation of designs on a belt, as far as it's plates are concerned? Also... What thickness ( in mm's or metric) is the buckle to be? I've seen some diagrams of originals, shown as a horizontal cut of the piece, and some look quite thin. Maybe three to four mm?
So basically that's it! I am trying different ways of rolling the edges, if there hasn't been anything advised already, I'm still looking for effective methods. I have tried bending up the edge of the plate, being annealed then soft enough to roll over...a nail! It works with mixed results. I shall keep trying , but I'm at a loss of cheap resources...I've even tried using tin cans for mock-ups! But aluminium is..haha..it cracks...
In the other pic I'm uploading, it's part of the hilt? For another gladius. I have failed to fight back the urge to make another one, and will do so, bit by bit. I have made this on my lathe, and it's of Oak...other than a bone grip, this is what the handle will be I hope it's acceptable. I have plenty of the Red Oak, and I can do other styles... I will probably make another "half" ball...and file this oval, and then carve in an inset for a thin brass plate, and then FIND A BONEEEE!!!
please note** I used rings for the circular designs, but then a washer and another outer ring which keep the shallow areas FLAT! Using ALL rounded rings will make your areas between shallow and a rise, very smooth and ugly, this way it's a crisp line I also have another question If I pre-cut my 2 up by 2-1/2 width plates and then stamp, I believe this will allow the edges to warp. If I use a whole sheet of 8 - 10" hobby brass, I may waste more, but it'll save me hammering edges, thus marking em!!! I spent a couple nights, or 3, getting this working...It's a thick tin can covered in tape with the motifs stuck to it. I am sorry for the unprofessional ism but I am not going to cast dies etc just for a stamp. I also couldn't find my double sided tape :/ I hope the results to you guys, are just the same
For a solution to both the possible issue of warping and the ease of rolling the edges, you could try adding a vertical bar to each end of the stamp which would stamp a raised border along the short edges. This could both avoid the problem of warping, as the ends would be held down, and would effectively start the process of rolling the edges for you. It is probably worth pointing out here that the belt plate stamp from the Colchester Sheepen site had a raised bar running along both of the shorter edges.
That is a very nice pommel by the way. On the matter of recessing the guard for a brass striker plate, this was certainly a feature of Mainz type handle assemblages, but may not have been so for Pompeii type assemblages. Neither of the bone examples for Dorchester and Mainz featured a striker plate, despite being recessed, and the Mainz example is still attached to its blade. Wooden Pompeii type guards from Vindonissa are recessed but also clearly show indentations where the shoulders of sword blades have worked their way into them - something which would probably not be possible if striker plates had been present.
At least some Pompeii type scabbards also seem to have lacked mouth/striker plates. Many such plates from Mainz type scabbards are to be seen in Miks' catalogue but there is only a single example which appears to be the right size for a Pompeii type scabbard, and there is always the possibility that this could have been for a cavalry spatha rather than an infantry gladius. Unfortunately I do not know if any surviving locket assemblages show evidence of such plates as pictures of them virtually never show the view from the top, meaning that examination in person is really necessary. Unfortunately I do not have the funds to travel over the Germany to peer into cabinet with a mirror on a long handle to see the mouths clearly. Perhaps there might be someone else here who knows of evidence for mouth plates on Pompeii scabbards but certainly I know of none other than what I have already mentioned.
Crispvs
Who is called \'\'Paul\'\' by no-one other than his wife, parents and brothers. :!: <img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_exclaim.gif" alt=":!:" title="Exclamation" />:!:
Why thank you Crispvs Now coming across a cow bone is seemingly hard, but there's a sausage place where they have pork etc...I imagine they'd have plenty bones, um..or I've still to try my local pet stores.
I will soon buy the metal and I'm sure making the blade will be something easy and a no timer, something I'll do on a day off...perfecting it..eh :/ I hope with new skills will be easier! I believe this pommel can belong to any sword type, so how about you suggest a sword type? Mainz good Crispvs? If you want to guide me to an original, or a recreated type already I'll willingly go for any ideas. Once things get going I'll start another topic. Wood used will be oak, and hopefully bone grip, leather I will order via internet.
With the belt plates I will think about this, but quite honestly, I don't think this will help. When is warps it's when there isn't enough edge to the plate. I will make the plates maybe 3 inches long by 2 and a half wide, and shear off the excess. I could shear 2-3 plates a time stacked atop each other to make them accurately the same. My snippers at the moment have fine teeth...but are excellent! I will anneal the plates first, and then the ends will still be soft. I will bend the very soft edges around a nail to form the tubes. I will possibly pre-hammer an 90 degree angle to the beginning of the bend.
There's really not much more to say until I buy the brass and get started! Shall I am trying to find dimensions for a buckle!!! I have like...a brass slab to make it off, but I need a rough guide! I looked at Matt's new ones, attractive to just buy one! I like the second image, so if you have dimensions for that buckle type, would be nice Leather I am still looking for decent on the internet...I see ugly, and uninteresting everywhere!!! And I can't find the right OZ'S!!
Try Googling "Zack White Leather". I get my leather there. They have a minimum order for shipping, but have always been helpful for my specific requirements. They have a huge selection of veg tan leather and perhaps have veg tan belt blanks also. Not the cheapest, but I can vouch for the quality...
if this link breaks any rules I shall delete but is this the best? I like this If I gave them a call, and I asked for a couple 2 and a half inch ...3 foot long strips, should be okay? What item did you order. Cause, length and width matters of course
I hope it's acceptable. I have plenty of the Red Oak, and I can do other styles... I will probably make another "half" ball...and file this oval, and then carve in an inset for a thin brass plate, and then FIND A BONEEEE!!!
2...only 2...for now 
If I pre-cut my 2 up by 2-1/2 width plates and then stamp, I believe this will allow the edges to warp. If I use a whole sheet of 8 - 10" hobby brass, I may waste more, but it'll save me hammering edges, thus marking em!!! I spent a couple nights, or 3, getting this working...It's a thick tin can covered in tape with the motifs stuck to it. I am sorry for the unprofessional ism but I am not going to cast dies etc just for a stamp. I also couldn't find my double sided tape :/ I hope the results to you guys, are just the same 
