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Roman Shoe Reconstructions
#61
Sure! Many thanks for that valuos information. I agree with your thoughts of the sides be longer. I dont have made that as a turn shoe, i will try to do in this way next time.
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#62
Photo 
   
   
   
Salve

I have finished one pair of calcei Billingsgate style. The customer wants a flavian calcei, and this style was used between 80-130 aD, beeing the forerunner of many II century calcei.

I have do it in blue calf leather, 2 mm thickness, with a insole of 2 mm and an outsole of 3-4 mm, both stitched with tunnel stitch. Have added some aditional decoration (punched dots and perimetral incised line)
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#63
(03-12-2016, 10:07 AM)LUCIUS ALFENUS AVITIANUS Wrote: Salve

I have finished one pair of calcei Billingsgate style. The customer wants a flavian calcei, and this style was used between 80-130 aD, beeing the forerunner of many II century calcei.

I have do it in blue calf leather, 2 mm thickness, with a insole of 2 mm and an outsole of 3-4 mm, both stitched with tunnel stitch. Have added some aditional decoration (punched dots and perimetral incised line)

Interesting though M.Volken notes the Calcei version as a Hadrianic style, the end date should probably go as far as late Antonine at least as far as the references quoted are concerned... these include Newstead, Rough Castle, Balmuildy and Barhill.... and I think should also include Crawford...
All of the sources are available online either at ADS or the Internet Archive.



Newstead no3(carbatina) and no5(calcei)
   
Ref: Curle 1911

Balmuildy No2 & 5(calcai)
   
Ref: https://archive.org/details/romanfortatbalmu00mill

Bar hill Fig24 no41(calcai)
   
Ref: http://www.huntsearch.gla.ac.uk/cgi-bin/...ethod=Link
and "Bar Hill a Roman fort and its finds", Robertson Scott & Keppie.

Rough Castle(calcai)
   
Ref: Excavations on the Antonine wall fort of Rough Castle 1957-61, Macivor, Thomas, Breeze. on ADS.

Crawford Fort from the Antonine fort ditch note the similarity with the examples from Balmuildy.
   
Ref: Excavations at the Roman fort of Crawford, Lanarkshire by Gordon Maxwell. on ADS.

For Flavian I would go with a plain Calcei (no cutouts) from Castle Street Carlisle comparable with decorated examples from Vindolanda some of which are in small sizes so could have been worn by the entire population , essentially a shoe version of a fellboot... which can be securely dated to the 80s-90s AD..

hope this is some help
Ivor

"And the four bare walls stand on the seashore. a wreck a skeleton a monument of that instability and vicissitude to which all things human are subject. Not a dwelling within sight, and the farm labourer, and curious traveller, are the only persons that ever visit the scene where once so many thousands were congregated." T.Lewin 1867
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#64
Thanks!! And what do you think is usable for a first half of first century aD lady shoes?
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#65
Going by finds and what we see on statues and reliefs a closed shoe without cutouts and a Mainz calceus like closing(?) - hard to say as that part is always covered AFAIK.
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#66
(03-28-2016, 09:00 PM), LUCIUS ALFENUS AVITIANUS Wrote: Thanks!! And what do you think is usable for a first half of first century aD lady shoes?

Would agree with Martin, I think you could include Mainz calcei and shoes like the ones from Didymoi(see Volken Panopolis) as this is an old design dating back to greek/persan forms, Roman version could be Socus (turnshoe) or Calcei...

Generally I wouldn't rule out openwork decoration on womens shoes though as some example are quite small...

From a Roman copy of a Hellenistic original of a seated Young Lady the shoe is similar to Panopolis type/didymoi, the form is also found on the Comachio shipwreck.
   

See here for some other possible examples: http://www.romanarmytalk.com/rat/thread-25088.html

Said to be a womens shoe from london (Mansion House) 21.5cm long 33eu though has probably shrunk, date is probably Flavian for this example though I think could easily originate in the secound quarter 1st century ad, plain shoes of this type are likely.
   

   

Mainz Calcei World wide distribution nailed or un-nailed in a range of sizes from child to adult... late 1st century BC on, low shoes are likely similar construction but with the opening covered by a flap, see Panopolis etc.
   

Mainz
   

Egypt
   

Flavian Calcai from Carlisle heres the scan, very similar to the Vindolanda example below but plain.
Source: microfische, Roman waterlogged remains at Castle Street CWAAS no5.
   

Vindolanda, Sulpicia Lepedina? or her children?
   
Ivor

"And the four bare walls stand on the seashore. a wreck a skeleton a monument of that instability and vicissitude to which all things human are subject. Not a dwelling within sight, and the farm labourer, and curious traveller, are the only persons that ever visit the scene where once so many thousands were congregated." T.Lewin 1867
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#67
More Flavian:

Here is one example from Didymoi a fort in Egypt nearish to Thebes and probably was intended as protection for a trade route, this example is dated to Trajanic 110ad, but examples exist of earlier forms from the same site 76-77, 86-92 and 96ad repectively firmly putting the style in the Flavian Era, the length is 267mm so is clearly for a man (40-41eu) rather then a women(see the first pic of the Greek/Roman sculpture in the previous post) source: "Le objets en cuir de Didymoi" M. Leguilloux 2006. published by IFAO:

http://www.ifao.egnet.net/publications/c...=10&w=tout

   
Ivor

"And the four bare walls stand on the seashore. a wreck a skeleton a monument of that instability and vicissitude to which all things human are subject. Not a dwelling within sight, and the farm labourer, and curious traveller, are the only persons that ever visit the scene where once so many thousands were congregated." T.Lewin 1867
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#68
(04-03-2016, 08:53 AM)Crispianus Wrote: More Flavian:

Here is one example from Didymoi a fort in Egypt nearish to Thebes and probably was intended as protection for a trade route, this example is dated to Trajanic 110ad, but examples exist of earlier forms from the same site 76-77, 86-92 and 96ad repectively firmly putting the style in the Flavian Era, the length is 267mm so is clearly for a man (40-41eu) rather then a women(see the first pic of the Greek/Roman sculpture in the previous post) source: "Le objets en cuir de Didymoi" M. Leguilloux 2006.
Thanks again!
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#69
(04-03-2016, 08:24 PM)LUCIUS ALFENUS AVITIANUS Wrote:
(04-03-2016, 08:53 AM)Crispianus Wrote: More Flavian:

Here is one example from Didymoi a fort in Egypt nearish to Thebes and probably was intended as protection for a trade route, this example is dated to Trajanic 110ad, but examples exist of earlier forms from the same site 76-77, 86-92 and 96ad repectively firmly putting the style in the Flavian Era, the length is 267mm so is clearly for a man (40-41eu) rather then a women(see the first pic of the Greek/Roman sculpture in the previous post) source: "Le objets en cuir de Didymoi" M. Leguilloux 2006.
Thanks again!

Your Welcome, if you dont have a copy of Billingsgate Buildings(for the Billingsgate Carbatina style and more) I've just noticed its now online and you can download it from Lamas here: http://www.lamas.org.uk/archives/special...s1980.html

Hard copy also available from Oxbow at a very good price:
http://www.oxbowbooks.com/oxbow/catalogs...+buildings

Theres a few other special papers from Lamas worth looking at for anyone interested in Leather here, Magnus House in particular:
http://www.lamas.org.uk/archives/special-papers.html
Ivor

"And the four bare walls stand on the seashore. a wreck a skeleton a monument of that instability and vicissitude to which all things human are subject. Not a dwelling within sight, and the farm labourer, and curious traveller, are the only persons that ever visit the scene where once so many thousands were congregated." T.Lewin 1867
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