Stiched or tacked facing?

[Dan D'Silva]

I'm currently at work on a crescent shield; it's wood (can't do wicker or vertical stickwork at this time) and, although I understand questions of accuracy may be moot because this style may not have even been made in solid wood, I'd like to know what would generally be the better way to attach a hide facing as regards either practicality or plausibility.

If I stitch it, I can take it to the wood shop in the next week or so and use the drill press, which will keep the holes straight and make drilling faster.  If I just use short cut tacks, I won't need to bother with pre-drilled holes.

[Crispianus]

I'm currently at work on a crescent shield; it's wood (can't do wicker or vertical stickwork at this time) and, although I understand questions of accuracy may be moot because this style may not have even been made in solid wood, I'd like to know what would generally be the better way to attach a hide facing as regards either practicality or plausibility.

If I stitch it, I can take it to the wood shop in the next week or so and use the drill press, which will keep the holes straight and make drilling faster.  If I just use short cut tacks, I won't need to bother with pre-drilled holes.

Stitching I think would be more accurate at least I dont know of any shields where a "leather" edge/facing was nailed on, this is rather I think a reinactorism... but have seen several stitched these stitches can be quite large, pre drill the holes in the wood first...

[Dan D'Silva]

Okay. Thank you!

[Dan D'Silva]

Is waxed artificial sinew an okay material for stitching? It's what I have on hand, but I'm concerned that it would, theoretically, be too easy to cut, and perhaps I could get thin rawhide lace instead.

[Crispianus]

Is waxed artificial sinew an okay material for stitching?  It's what I have on hand, but I'm concerned that it would, theoretically, be too easy to cut, and perhaps I could get thin rawhide lace instead.

I would use flax or linen thread, artificial thread only if its not visible or there's absolutely no alternative, if you need a thicker thread simply double, triple, quadruple it etc untill its as heavy as you want, wax it, twist it and wax it again.... for a needle use a pair of soldered wire needles (can be made from any suitable folded thin wire, twist it then solder it, cut the loose ends off and clean up with a stone or file to a smooth blunt point) as its easier to go through small holes with such needles... because your using two needles there not much chance it will fall apart, if unsure then use a double row of stitching about 1/2 inch apart or so...

[Dan D'Silva]

Something like this?

[Crispianus]

Something like this?

Thats very white very processed, I tend to use unwaxed Flax/linen thread in its natural colour and wax it as I need it:

https://www.etsy.com/listing/213215557/1...gallery_18

[Dan D'Silva]

Like this, then?  I don't really feel the need to do the doubling up and waxing myself.

I do wonder, though, about the ability of thread, especially waxed thread, to resist cuts.  I'd imagine real sinew to be a better choice if one trusts one's own knots, though I mainly intend this one for use against blunt weapons (seeing as it can't be used to accurately gauge resistance to sharp ones).

[Crispianus]

Like this, then?  I don't really feel the need to do the doubling up and waxing myself.

I do wonder, though, about the ability of thread, especially waxed thread, to resist cuts.  I'd imagine real sinew to be a better choice if one trusts one's own knots, though I mainly intend this one for use against blunt weapons (seeing as it can't be used to accurately gauge resistance to sharp ones).

The choice is yours, given the three I would go for the dark brown I think it would look better, white just looks wrong to me too processed, I dont think there would be any real problem with the thread being cut, not by blunt weapons anyway...

I think Real Sinew would be fine but would think it wouldn't be long enough, you could use thin goatskin rawhide as you've already suggested it have to be pretty thin though, pick a scrap skin doesnt matter if it has holes and marks... damp it if needed.. cut it in a circular fashion and you can make a thong as long as you want, wet this and lace it in the same way used on roman leatherwork... though I think the holes in the shield board would have to be somewhat larger then when using thread...

However in the Dura Report it specifically says two twine threads for the edge stitching.....

[Dan D'Silva]

Alright.  Thanks again.

[M. Val. Naso]

You could try asking around in a few leatherworking shops, they might have non-artificial strong threads.

Sewing the facing on is exponentially more of a pain in the ass than tacking, but not necessarily longer in time, and it is definitely more durable. And the feeling you get when you see other people using tacked, that is just marvelous.