Valkenburg/Castleford style caliga step by step

[Martin Moser]

I have one question for Martin, did you do the back seam twice. a double stitch on both sides? From the diagram in the "Stepping through time", this stitch only shows on a single side:

Yes, but that illustration only serves to show the method as such IMHO. If you read the text on Caligae (p.362) you will find it says:

"The back seam is double stitched with an extremely fine edge/grain on the outside [...] and a more widely spaced edge/flesh overstitch on the inside"

I used the same strength thread this time, but plan to follow this description more literally next time.

As for the covering strip of leather - yes and no. The outside one certainly decorates, but it also protects a seam done with fine yarn and serves to take some sideways stress off it IMHO. If prolonged to go down over the heel and inwards between the sole layers it also takes vertical stress off that section and the piece found in Mainz (cited and shown in a message above somewhere) supports this assumption I think. The inside one simply makes wearing them more comfortable.

Shoemaker's pitch - as I said, I can find some for you here and send it over if you want me to. A good source for tools and more in the US is

http://www.tandyleather.com

I think, they have a big range of products (many thanks to Comerus for this info!). Didn't find shoemaker's pitch, though, but maybe if you contact them they can help.