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ok ok. here i go. i plan to make my tunic body as wide as i am from elbow to elbow like on the http://www.comitatus.net/ site. now heres my problem. how wide do i make the arm pits at the start and how should i taper them to the cuff of the sleeve? my fabric i think is like 60 inches wide so its kinda long enough, but i'm sure when i put mail on over the tunic the sleeves will be 3/4 sleeves wont they? it looks like from other reenactor pictures everyones does this right?
also, how long should i mkae the hem? to the knees and blose it up to the mid thigh over the belt or make it longer till i blose it up to the knees? hehe
i've read grahams book and a few other sources, but i'd like a few things cleared up before i cut this wonderful white wool thats soooooooo soft ehhehe
Tiberius Claudius Lupus
Chuck Russell
Keyser,WV, USA
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The idea is that you won't end up with 3/4 sleeves, so make them long enough.
My tunic is not knee length at the moment, but sizes varied - I say make it to knee length and blouse it up.
White wool? And you're going to wear a hamata over it?  hock:
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OK, let's go again! 
![[Image: Unbelted.jpg]](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/tribunus/Unbelted.jpg)
And the pattern for one
![[Image: Reepsholt-2.jpg]](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/tribunus/Reepsholt-2.jpg)
You can see that the sleeves have parallel sides but they are sewn leaving towards the inner side the triangles marked on the pattern, so the excess of fabric remains tucked inside and the profile of the sleeve is conical, narrowing towards the cuff.
After belting the tunic, the result looks more or less than on the Ancient sources...
![[Image: Belted.jpg]](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/tribunus/Belted.jpg)
Aitor
It\'s all an accident, an accident of hands. Mine, others, all without mind, from one extreme to another, but neither works nor will ever.
Rolf Steiner
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Thanks once more, Aitor! How about we write a book about late Roman clothing? Ah, no, Graham already did that a few times...
I bet, however, that nowadays you wish you hadn't shaved your beard off for that picture.. :lol:
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Quote:Thanks once more, Aitor! How about we write a book about late Roman clothing? Ah, no, Graham already did that a few times...
Perhaps it needs rewriting with more diagrams?
Aitor makes a good point about the sleeves tapering towards the cuffs which should be very tight fitting around the wrists. I have seen a lot of Late Roman re-enactors with either baggy sleeves or wide openings at the cuffs. While there are tunics which survive which are like this, indeed I admit to illustrating some of them in my book, a close study of military figures in late Roman art reveals that they have tight fitting sleeves and cuffs. The only variations are a few examples of the old style short sleeved tunic or a short sleeved tunic worn over a long sleeved one with again tight fitting cuffs.
There was possibly a practical explanation for the tight fitting cuffs as they would be less lightly to snag or catch on anything but also they look much smarter.
Aitor has also illustrated his decorations again which I think is a brilliant idea for reproducing the complicated designs cheaply and reasonably accurately without having to resort to the huge expense of having them woven into your tunic. As there is also evidence for some resist dyed decorations some versions could be reproduced by being painted or inked onto the tunic but I still think Aitor's technique yields the best results and does not require too much artistic skill.
Graham.
"Is all that we see or seem but a dream within a dream" Edgar Allan Poe.
"Every brush-stroke is torn from my body" The Rebel, Tony Hancock.
"..I sweated in that damn dirty armor....TWENTY YEARS!', Charlton Heston, The Warlord.
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There is a book which consummately discusses these matters:
Matthias Pausch, Die römische Tunika. Ein Beitrag zur Peregrinisierung der antiken Kleidung, Augsburg, 2003.
I really recommend it! 
Christian K.
No reconstruendum => No reconstruction.
Ut desint vires, tamen est laudanda voluntas.
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Quote:There is a book which consummately discusses these matters:
Matthias Pausch, Die römische Tunika. Ein Beitrag zur Peregrinisierung der antiken Kleidung, Augsburg, 2003.
I really recommend it!
I got my copy from Dr Pausch himself and sent him copies of my books in return. I just wish I could read German and this probably also explains why the vast majority of RAT readers have either not heard of it or read it. Anyone fancy having a go at translating it?
Robert you can also try a Google search for Linda Hall's website on late antique textiles. In her section on Coptic fabrics there is a Plate 62 which shows a tunic insert with something suspiciously like a shield motif. Is this something similar to anything on the ND, do you know? Makes me think you could adopt this idea and include your own shield device on your own tunic!
Graham.
"Is all that we see or seem but a dream within a dream" Edgar Allan Poe.
"Every brush-stroke is torn from my body" The Rebel, Tony Hancock.
"..I sweated in that damn dirty armor....TWENTY YEARS!', Charlton Heston, The Warlord.
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Aitor,
Would you please be so kind to share the method you used to recreate these designs?
"...quemadmodum gladius neminem occidit, occidentis telum est."
a.k.a. Paul M.
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Robert,
Well, in fact I go beardless most time of the year, except for re-enacting periods :wink:
I was really plump when those pics were taken. Now I have a more narrow and 'spiritual' Late Roman face! 
Graham,
Could you, please, post the URL of that page? Does Pausch's book cover all the Roman period or just the Late one? If it is a general work, is the Late period well covered?
Paul,
It is easy and difficult at the same time.
First, you need a cotton tunic, cut to the pattern but still unsewn.
Second, choose a set of decorative patches (cuff-bands, clavus, orbiculus and neck) belonging together and from a suitable period. Better if the pics are nearly real size.
Third, copy in ink (or in Photoshop, if you are handy enough) one of each (You only need one pair of cuff bands, one clavus, one neck band and one orbiculus. You can get all by repeating or reversing them. The smaller orbiculi result from reducing the standard, shoulder one). Scan the drawings and modify them to get the desired colours. Better if you copy all the imperfections and even thread unevenness of the originals.
Fourth. Pass the files to a colour photocopier (or something better, if you have access to it! ) and print heat transfers.
Fifth. Apply the heat transfers to the unsewn tunic one by one at the correct places.
That's it! 8)
Aitor
It\'s all an accident, an accident of hands. Mine, others, all without mind, from one extreme to another, but neither works nor will ever.
Rolf Steiner
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Quote:Graham,
Could you, please, post the URL of that page?
www.smcm.edu/users/ljhall/textiles/
Hope this helps Aitor.
Quote:Does Pausch's book cover all the Roman period or just the Late one? If it is a general work, is the Late period well covered?
It covers the entire Roman period for male and female tunics and as you can imagine a book devoted entirely to a single subject is very comprehensive indeed. There does not appear to be much devoted to military tunics and some of the diagrams seem to be general interpretations rather than based on actual examples but perhaps a German reader can correct me on that. There are no colour pictures but an excellent selection otherwise, including some of Connolly's reconstructions as well as some actual reconstructions of a variety of tunics. As I said I just wish I could read it!!!  Perhaps every German RAT reader would be good enough to translate a few pages each.
Graham.
"Is all that we see or seem but a dream within a dream" Edgar Allan Poe.
"Every brush-stroke is torn from my body" The Rebel, Tony Hancock.
"..I sweated in that damn dirty armor....TWENTY YEARS!', Charlton Heston, The Warlord.
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Quote:Robert you can also try a Google search for Linda Hall's website on late antique textiles. In her section on Coptic fabrics there is a Plate 62 which shows a tunic insert with something suspiciously like a shield motif. Is this something similar to anything on the ND, do you know? Makes me think you could adopt this idea and include your own shield device on your own tunic!
You mean plate 61?
![[Image: Volbach061.jpg]](http://www.smcm.edu/users/ljhall/textiles/images/Large/Volbach061.jpg)
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Quote:As I said I just wish I could read it!!! Perhaps every German RAT reader would be good enough to translate a few pages each.
Send me the copies of some pages, I'll gladly give it a go.
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Quote:Fourth. Pass the files to a colour photocopier (or something better, if you have access to it! ) and print heat transfers.
Fifth. Apply the heat transfers to the unsewn tunic one by one at the correct places.
Fourth. Go to a profeessional copyshop and have them print your copies onto similar linen as your tunic (not the tunic itself).
Fith. Cut out the printed linen patches and sew them on your tunic. Looks even better.
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Thanks Graham and Robert!
This tabula looks a little Late, maybe no earlier than VIth century. Waht appears inside is just a stylized Chi-Ro. Without denying the possibility of it being a shield, I'd rather say that it is just a religious motif... :?
Robert,
Original patches were woven with the tunic or resist-dyed on it. Sewing them as appliques implies always re-using.
I prefer to do it my way, though I must admit that, with yours, the risk or ruining everything by misprinting one patch is avoided! :wink:
Aitor
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Hello Aitor
On the website Linda Hall dates it between V-VI century but as we know these things are notoriously difficult to date accurately although some work has now been done on carbon dating late Roman textiles.
Robert I presume it was OK to reproduce the image? But is there a similar device in the ND, perhaps a unit based in or from Egypt?
Graham.
"Is all that we see or seem but a dream within a dream" Edgar Allan Poe.
"Every brush-stroke is torn from my body" The Rebel, Tony Hancock.
"..I sweated in that damn dirty armor....TWENTY YEARS!', Charlton Heston, The Warlord.
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