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linothorax shoulder section
#1
hey! second thread of mine. i did a search and went through 5 pages of threads looking for something on this but i couldnt find anything...

so on to my question!


i've found that the soulder section seems to be the hardest part in constructing a linothorax, i cant seem to make it look right... of course im making it from construction paper before i cut out the linen, but every time i look at it, it just keeps getting wierder..


i know that: the shoulder pieces need to curve outward to fit correctly when put on, what i cant figure is


how far they need to curve,

where they should start the curve,

how thick the shoulder pieces should actually be?

should they be thicker in the center than the ends?


any help? or, does anyone have a model i can work from? i find it very hard to find a decent size and angle picture of one...


thanks!
dave woodruff
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#2
Have you tried just spreading straight rectangles out like you spread your fingers? Shorter strips at the outside than the inside?
TARBICvS/Jim Bowers
A A A DESEDO DESEDO!
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#3
yea i did, and thats probably the best way to do it, but how about width?

the other thing i wanted to ask was, the part that attaches to the back, how long and wide does it need to be? is it kinda just a guess thing?
dave woodruff
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#4
The ancient linothorax based on Thebes arsenal finds would be 15 layers Dave. Dan Howard also offered a valuable solution with cross stiching.
Please see again the linothorax thread for details.
KInd regards
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#5
sorry i didnt mean the thickness, i've got that down but i was talking about from left to right but anyways nevermind, i think i've got this shoulder section figured out! if you guys like, i can post pictures when i finish this thing. although since its my first time doing something like this, it will look exactly like my name says: screwed up :lol:


edit: again, im not quite sure which thread you are talking about, do you have a link to it? sorry to be a hassle!
dave woodruff
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#6
A couple of tips:- Don't make the foldovers too wide, or they will restrict your ability to raise your arm. Consider how to make the neck-guard do its job without interfering with your helmet.
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#7
gotcha paul, thanks. i made them each about 15cm wide. too much?i put it around me and i dont thinik it will restrict me putting my hands up.

i'll try and keep in mind the helmet thing, but i dont have one now heh.

also, i read somewhere that the soulder section can be sewn or glued to the main section. is there any really dissadvantage to gluing it? like, while it faul apart when it gets warm?
dave woodruff
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#8
Quote:.

also, i read somewhere that the soulder section can be sewn or glued to the main section. is there any really dissadvantage to gluing it? like, while it faul apart when it gets warm?

Very probably, especially if, like me, you sweat a lot. Dan Howard argues for sewing throughout, rather than glueing, and he has a point. For attaching the epomides, though, you will need heavy thread and it can be more like lacing than sewing. I drilled holes for the thread and sewed with pseudo-sinew, but you could use leather thonging or linen thread.
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#9
what about brass rivets?
dave woodruff
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#10
Dunno. I've never seen any evidence for them, but the join is usually covered with a layer of linen, which is then painted, so it could have been done, but I feel uneasy about it.
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#11
you do not have to curve the shoulder section out you can just make it straight. when you pull it together at the front you get the desired profile over the shoulder. Glue it, sew it, no difference. get a good woodwork glue and it wont fall apart.
"History, despite its wrenching pain, cannot be unlived, but if faced with courage, need not be lived again." Maya Angelou
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#12
Quote:you do not have to curve the shoulder section out you can just make it straight. when you pull it together at the front you get the desired profile over the shoulder. Glue it, sew it, no difference. get a good woodwork glue and it wont fall apart.

He's talking about gluing the epomides to the thorax, here, Jason.
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#13
shoulders to the body at the back, yep, mine hasn't come apart and it has been soaking wet.

Not technically accurate but works.
"History, despite its wrenching pain, cannot be unlived, but if faced with courage, need not be lived again." Maya Angelou
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#14
ok well i'll forget about the rivets then, i bought a hand drill today and i've got left over linen and i'll just lace it through nice and tight then and put a little glue just to be sure it doesn't move around i guess! i think im starting to figure this out, its much more difficult than i thought it would be!

thanks for your help guys!

i also picked up some nice brass rings at the store that will work perfectly for the tying.

so, the shoulder section is called epomides?
dave woodruff
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#15
Quote:ok well i'll forget about the rivets then, i bought a hand drill today and i've got left over linen and i'll just lace it through nice and tight then and put a little glue just to be sure it doesn't move around i guess!
so, the shoulder section is called epomides?

Don't worry about gluing and lacing; the thing needs to move a bit.

Jason, what kind of glue did you use? It sounds as if it would be handy for the trim, which I would rather not sew, if I can avoid it.
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