sword blade started/FINISHED

[brennivs - tony drake]

Svlla look forward to seeing the sword finished any probs drop a line
Marcvs ther are few different ways to blue,since some groups are now blueing Cassis and Loricas.In medieval times a oven was built next to the forge so this also could have been done in a roman fabrica as well.Also a billet of iron was heated to abright red heat and smaller items placed on it .Blueing is a byproduct of heat treatment and became decrotive on swords from approx 1500 AD onwards. There are various colours you can acheive by heating,
very pale straw yellow 430 deg
darker yellow 440 deg
straw colour 470 deg
brownish yellow 500 deg
yellow tinged purple 520 deg
light purple 530 deg
dark purple 550 deg
dark blue 570 deg
pale blue 600 deg
pale blue tinge of green 630 deg
As you can see temprature change can be rapid so you need a keen eye for this method ,you must take the piece out from heat at the right time or it will still continue to change colour before it cools . But the tempratures involved are not that great hence the use of ovens, the billet method is still used to heat treat hunting knifes.
Instead of heating the forge or putting the living room fire on I used a simple heating torch and watched the colour change but you can still have the same over heating problems.It took me 2 attemps to get the gaurd right.This was made easy because the pommel and gaurd were not attached to blade I hope this is not to much waffle about the process.
Regards Brennivs

[Tiberius Clodius Corvinus]

... finally found your sword thread ... I've got some further questions on grinding my (totally blunt) carbon steel gladius. I've no idea where to start with.
If I get it right you said that ( http://www.romanarmy.com/rat/viewtopic. ... &start=100 ):

1. use an angle grinder (approx. 1000 W, - will be 850 W enough?) with an rough abbrasive disc (btw, which diameter? the bigger, the better?)
2. then a smooth grinding disc (thickness 6mm) and ...
3. a flap wheel for finishing

did I get this right? (I know, I completely suck on this matter ;-) ) )

regards,

Tiberius

p.s. when you mentioned degrees, did you mean Celsius or Fahrenheit?

[brennivs - tony drake]

I will answer tommorrow as a few pics are needed and I can explain better D
Regards Brennivs

[Q. Epidicus Andronicus]

I'm fairly new to this forum and this is one of the first posts I've read here and I think it's a great start.

You've done some incredible work here. Very well done!

Do you have any links to other works you've completed? I'd love to see more.

--
Q. Epidicus Andronicus
-
A.k.a. Clayton Woods
Albion Blade Shop
[url:owl971vn]http://www.albion-swords.com[/url]

[brennivs - tony drake]

Heres Some



Regards Brennivs

[brennivs - tony drake]

More



Regards Brennivs

[brennivs - tony drake]

More


I just wish I had a digital camera all them years ago as I have been making swords and scabbards for 20 years :lol: and have made so many I cannot remmember how many Ive made :lol: :lol: As well as doing just about every piece of kit a soldier carried or wore, as well as loads of civillian kit. I just wished I had taken pics Arrrr. So I hope this is of some use
Regards Brennivs

[brennivs - tony drake]

Now Tiberivs a 850W grinder is fine, it is the gear box thats the thing, if it runs smooth when grinding without vibration. That would be a great help as if the gearbox has any play on it,it will bounce on the blade and can make a bad job.



A 4 1/2" or 115mm disc grinder is best as it can be controlled better.
The pics above show various discs from the left is a 1mm cutting disc.
The next is a3mm cutting disc.
The next pic is a 6mm grinding disc.
then last which is useful is a flap wheel for a grinder which might be better as it will take less metal of than a grinder. I would also try on a bit metal to get a feel of how metal is removed so you can judge which type of disc to use. But beware as cutting discs are not meant for grinding, and can sometimes shatter if you force the discs down as if grinding.
Regards Brennivs

[brennivs - tony drake]

For finishing these are the types of abrasives you could use

The standard flap wheel and abrasive cones as well as the belt sander. You could also use a stone to flatten down high spots and put a edge on before finnishing with abrasives.
http://www.thepolishingshop.co.uk/index.html
Here is the firm I buy my abrasives from, if you keep a eye out or Ill PM you when I do my grinding thread ?: if not just drop a line
Regards Brennivs [/code]

[Tiberius Clodius Corvinus]

many thanks for the quick reply really helpful

if you look up profile of the author you can find the topic you want faster

... should have figured out myself :oops:

or Ill PM you when I do my grinding thread

this would be great

[brennivs - tony drake]

No problem any time
Regards Brennivs

[Giannis K. Hoplite]

Hey,Brennivs, this is terrific job!!! Thanks for posting them and for the whole stages of construction. Me comming from the Greek section...what about Greek swords? Have you ever thought od making any? Well, I find them pretty much the most beautiful (though simple) ancient swords. But then again,I'm a Greek(re-enactor) :lol:
Khaire
Giannis

[brennivs - tony drake]

Giannis I have done a Hoplite sword but I cannot put my finger on which one it was, but they are just as easy to make. I hope to make a Falcata at some point, since it is my favorite and yes I agree very civilized they are too with those classical lines.
Regards Brennivs

[Giannis K. Hoplite]

So you have done! Have you got any pics?
I used a LOTR "sting" sword to make my hoplite sword. It is not even half as good as yours,but it was my first try and I'm pleased with its look. Not Great craftsmanship but it looks accurate. Unable to find bone,I used wood instead :oops: And painted it.

Link to the blade:
http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o118 ... C02712.jpg
Khaire
Giannis

[brennivs - tony drake]

This is a excellent job you did and good on you for using a LOTR to make your blade. This is what I do when looking at blades or rawmetal I imagine the finished item from it x ( ( cry: .

Never put your work down, be proud of your handy work because from this you can learn and make something else and before you know it you will have a big collection
Regards Brennivs