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Painting in 1/72 Scale??
#1
Salve! Fellow Forum Gents!

I have had two sets of minuatures shoved away in a drawer for yonks. These are "Roman Infantry" by Italeri and "Roman Legion" by ESCI. These are 1/72 scale. Thought it was time to either use em er lose em.

Could anyone possibly lend a little advice on the painting of these almost bacteria sized guys? The detail they exhibit is pretty amazing for the tinyness of it all. Perhaps point me to a webiste etc that explains tools, methods etc? Would be very grateful.

Many thanks for all!

Cheers!

Rick
Titus Publius Saturninus
Richard Tonti
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#2
Rick,

If you go to www.hat.com and then go to the link for 'everything toy soldiers' there are many examples there - there are also guides for painting on the main site (even though I don't like their styles necessarily).

There are also links and information on the www.plasticsoldierreview.com site

Hope they help.

Cheers

Murray
Murray K Dahm

Moderator

\'\'\'\'No matter how many you kill, you cannot kill your successor\'\'\'\' - Seneca to Nero - Dio 62

\'\'\'\'There is no way of correcting wrongdoing in those who think that the height of virtue consists in the execution of their will\'\'\'\' - Ammianus Marcellinus 27.7.9
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#3
Hello Rick,

I also have the Esci Romans and i am currently paiting some Esci Barbarians and some Revell Gauls.

One problem with that kind of miniature is the plastic that they are made from.

You you dont use a special kind of paint (or a "special" process that i will explain below) the paint will just peel off the miniature just by handling it.

Now the special process...white glue.

First of all clean the miniature with soap and water, after it drys paint the miniature with white glue diluted in water. The miniature will look like a white blob, dont worry its normal, as the white glue dries that effect will dissapear.
After that paint the miniature with your favourite paints, I use the GW line.
After painting the miniature paint it up again with white glue diluted in water. This will make a "cocoon" of white glue that will protect the paint.

Here are a few "Barbarians" that are done, since its from a mobile camera the photo isnt very good


[Image: DSC00021.jpg]

[Image: DSC00020.jpg]

[Image: DSC00019.jpg]
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#4
Murray and Nuno,
Thank you both VERY much for sharing your info. VERY much appreciated. Have visited a few sites but still wonder what tools are used. Obviously a standard modeling brush would be like sending that knat sized Caeser Augustus through a car wash. So what do you guyz use needles?? toothpics and I guess it goes without saying VERY meaningful magnification and lighting.

Nuno your detailed work it amazing! sorta like "Honey I Shrunk Atila The Hun"

Thank you both again so much!!

Cheers!

Rick
Titus Publius Saturninus
Richard Tonti
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#5
I use about 2 to 3 different size brushes.
I dont know if the size reference is the same were you live but here it goes

One for giving the undercoat (or use a spray can) i usually prefer black, but white is also ok. - size 0

The other one for giving the basecoat, paint the skin, clothing etc etc - size 00

The last one for fine detail - size 000

As for painting/basing itself this is what i do.

I use metal washers for the miniatures, it gives them more weight
So fist of all i place a bit of masking tape over the hole of the washer.
I then glue the miniature with white glue over the "masked" washer.
Paint glue over the base and flock it, wait till it drys, and paint glue again over the base.
After it drys i paint the miniature with glue. after it drys i get a bunch of miniatures at the same stage and spray it black.
I drybrush a dark brown over the base(since i flocked it it has now a grainy texture) i drybrush more two times with lighter shades of brown.
Sice the base is done i start with the miniature.
For the legionaire i would recommend to start first with the skin and tunic.
Paint the skin and the tunic, then i use inks wich are highly pigmented paint that is quite liquid it will build depth on the mini.
Next highlight the inked areas by drybrushing in a lighter color, after it pic up the more raised areas with a even lighter color.
Do the armor next just paint it with a metal color, ink the armor with armor ink or black ink, but be carefull not to allow this ink to spread to the other areas.
Paint any other details that you want, scabbards, caligae, eye (a simple black dot will be enough)
After all the paint is done i use black or brown ink to paint thin lines in places where the paint changes color (ex: beetween the tunic and the armor, beetween face and helmet, beetween sword and hand, etc etc) it will give out more contrast.

Do the shield separately, stick it on a tooth pick or similar and paint the shield. The Esci shields have a hole in the middle so you might want to fill that up with green stuff or similar so it looks like a shield boss.
After that glue the shield to the miniatures hand.

After the mini is done paint white glue diluted in water over it, now be carefull that the white glue might accumulate in certain areas (ex: beetween the legs) if that happens just blow over it .

After the glue dries the miniature will look more shinny. I now place dots of white glue (normal not diluted) in the base and place static grass on it.
After its all dry the miniature is done.

Hope it helps

PS: Another site you might want to check out is this one http://www.geocities.com/dbplastic/
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#6
Hi Rick,

Yes anything up to a size 1 brush but usually the more 0s the better (although 10 0s is just ridiculous but good for eyes on 25 mm). You can also coat figures in a superglue so they hole the paint better - although this is far more expensive than white glue. Personally I have never coated figures as after I paint them I keep handling to a minimum or put them on dioramas so handling isn't a problem.

Some argue you should work from dark paints to light, others the opposite. When you have 50 figures you can get a real production line going and do all figures in each colour. This means that they look incomplete for ages but, all of a sudden, you get 50 figures completed.

Another option is to go for numbers and only give the figures the basics (flesh, tunic, armour, weapons and shield) and then the effect with several hundred is great from a distance. One painting technique I have see using this technique avoids the figures looking rushed by dipping them all in wood stain after they have a basic colour scheme - this gives all figures shading and shadows. They must be drip dried after 'dipping'

Cheers

Murray
Murray K Dahm

Moderator

\'\'\'\'No matter how many you kill, you cannot kill your successor\'\'\'\' - Seneca to Nero - Dio 62

\'\'\'\'There is no way of correcting wrongdoing in those who think that the height of virtue consists in the execution of their will\'\'\'\' - Ammianus Marcellinus 27.7.9
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#7
Nuno Murray and all I just really wanted to thank you guys so much for your help and all the time you took trying to educate me about mini Romans. I think it's totally awesome to see some of the minute details in your work Nuno!! You are truly a gifted artisan.

I may be picking up a few sets on a local auction site real cheap including a set of Carthaginian army dudes.

I don't believe I could have ventured on without your kind assistance.

Thanks HEAPS mates for everything!!

Cheers!!

Rick
Titus Publius Saturninus
Richard Tonti
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#8
Any time, and if you find yourself in any difficulty just drop a line Tongue

Happy painting
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