Uhm, confused to say the least...

[Icelandic]

I've read quite a few times here, and on a few other sites, that when building the hinges for the Segmentata, you should cut them out of the sheet brass using either a rat-tail saw blade, or a jeweler's saw. Well, I went to the hobby store today, and found that they only had the jeweler's saw, so I bought one, and some extra fine saw blades because I figured they'd be breaking enough, being that they supplied me with 12 off the bat. Well, I got home, loaded it up, and tried to start cutting...and much to my surprise, it could barely even cut paper...? I bought an X-Acto Jeweler's Saw, and it says that it should be "for sawing metal and other hard materials", but it isn't cutting diddly. Anyone out there willing to explain what's up?

[M. Demetrius]

Did you mount the blade with the points pointing up or down in the frame?

[Icelandic]

I tried both; neither seemed to work very well, but the directions say "points' up...the best results I got were from putting the hinge in a vice, having the points down, and even then, the saw got about 1/16th into the hinge before it shattered. :?

[M. Demetrius]

Generally, they break when the force of the hand makes the "blade", really more like a thin wire, as you know, bend along the direction of motion. I think down is the more common way, but it's still a slow process compared to a band saw or something. Any kind of power saw that is reciprocating will not be a very satisfying endeavor.

There's a reason they gave you 12 blades with the frame....

:wink:

[Marcus Julius]

Generally, they break when the force of the hand makes the "blade", really more like a thin wire, as you know, bend along the direction of motion. I think down is the more common way, but it's still a slow process compared to a band saw or something. Any kind of power saw that is reciprocating will not be a very satisfying endeavor.

There's a reason they gave you 12 blades with the frame....

:wink:

I was lucky enough to have jewelry making as one of the topics in my junior high art class. First, I'd suggest going one size larger on the teeth. With softer metals, and smaller spaces for the filing to fill into, you can easily "pack" the teeth with filings. This may be why you're getting a short way in, and then not going further.
I usually use 15tpi. Occasionally, I'll go with 20 tpi when I'm cutting iron/steel.

Also the key with the really thin blades is to keep your hand, the saw and all moving in a straight line. Hard to do with the way our bodies are designed, but you have to keep it going straight. Go slow, and don't try to force the blade into the material.

There is another odd option. I have also used maller size coarse and medium metal files to do "saw" work before, as well. I have yet to break one of those.

I'd love to be able to afford a band saw, but it isn't in my budget at the moment. I've got a butcher friend with one, but he doesn't seem too willing to let me hack metal on his meat cutting table. Something about the filings getting in the meat? Heck, if you ask me, he could advertise the meat as "extra minerals added" that way :wink:

[caiusbeerquitius]

Use some beeswax. Make a ball of it and pull the "blade" through it. Makes sawing much easier and quicker. Be careful to make only straight up-and-down movements. Don´t push forward while sawing. Teeth should point downwards.

[Hibernicus]

You might want to try making fittings the way they were likely made, with chisels, punches and files. Its less expensive and faster

I can make a lobate hinge in 20 minutes

Most of the guys in our group after some practice quickly get that time down to 30 minutes and this is even for guys with little to no metal work experience.

Mortising chisels, drift punches and files.

[Icelandic]

@ Caius: Where in the wold would I get beeswax?


@ Hibernicus: I'm a little skeptical, being that I already spent $24.00 on this saw, plus some extra blades; I'd rather not invest in more tools unless they're needed, because I really have very, very little money to do this with. But, just incase this jeweler's saw is more work than I deem it worth, I don't suppose you have a walk-through or anything like that for it, do you?

[Gaius Julius Caesar]

Icelandic\\n[quote]@ Caius: Where in the wold would I get beeswax?

From a beekeeper! :lol: :lol: :lol:

[Hibernicus]

The best place to get mortissing chisels is at a swap meet or thrift store.

You'll need 1/4", 1/2" and 3/4"

Same place for drift punches, 1/8"

Maybe a dollar each?

A hobby set of files is under $15

And the chisels will last for decades.

Steps:
1- trace out your pattern on the flat brass
2- cut away the excess brass with a chisel
3- cut out the hinge barrel slots/tabs
4- fold over a rod the size of your hinge pin
5- chisel off the remaining brass
6- match slots to tabs, filing as needed
7- set hinge pin
8- finish filing.. the more you chisel off the less filing you'll need to do!

or if you have a good hand skip step 2

You may want to anneal the brass, but with a good hand, a good hammer and a sharp chisel you should be able to shape a hinge from a double layer of .025

[Icelandic]

@ Caius: Where in the wold would I get beeswax?

From a beekeeper! :lol: :lol: :lol:

Hardy har har.

[Icelandic]

You may want to anneal the brass, but with a good hand, a good hammer and a sharp chisel you should be able to shape a hinge from a double layer of .025

Uh, I'm using .32 :wink:

[caiusbeerquitius]

Ebay?

[Icelandic]

On a related note, does anyone remember off-hand what the patterns on the Legio XX's site are supposed to be blown-up to to be accurate sizes? I think he once said 136%, but I can't remember. If not, does anyone have any other links to patterns with accurate sizing that I could print out to copy to the blank folds I have?

[Caius Fabius]

Do y'all soften your brass before you start cutting it/ working with it?