Tinning Brass or bronze

[richsc]

I have a brass patera made by Mark Morrow as an experimental piece. I was thinking of tinning it with un-leaded solder, but was told that only leaded solder would adhere to brass. True? How are all these other bronze patera tinned then? <p>Legio XX<br>
Caput dolet, pedes fetent, Iesum non amo<br>
<br>
</p><i></i>

[Anonymous]

Rich, as far as I know, unleaded tin will work, but it's trickier. You'll definately need a good propane torch, to get some good heat on it. <p>Magnus/Matt<br>
Legio XXX "Ulpia Victrix"<br>
Niagara Falls, Canada</p><i></i>

[johnlg3]

Rich,<br>
How much did you pay for the patera? I love Mark's pila, so I'm guessing it's a nice one.<br>
<p>John Gross<br>
Legio II AVG<br>
Oregon, USA</p><i>Edited by: <A HREF=http://p200.ezboard.com/bromanarmytalk.showUserPublicProfile?gid=jlg3>jlg3</A> at: 5/11/04 6:35 pm<br></i>

[Anonymous]

I have tinned a brass balteus and cingulum with the Oatey Brand leadfree solder (which I could only find at a True Value). It'll adhere as well and lead solder, and on a smooth surface is pretty easy to apply per Matt Amt's instructions. Once you mess up a spot it gets harder and harder to get that area smooth. I'm not sure about doing as large a surface as a patera, it would definitely take a few goes to get that large area. My real question though is: 1) is that kind of tin really food safe- even though it's lead free-? And 2) since it is applied with heat, how well would it work in a cooking pan anyway? I am very interested to hear any experimental results.<br>
<br>
Quintus Florentius <p></p><i></i>

[richsc]

The Mark Morrow patera was an experiment, and I seem to remember he charged me $40 for it, but I don't know what he would ask the next time. You can send him some specs and he'll give you an estimate. <p>Legio XX<br>
Caput dolet, pedes fetent, Iesum non amo<br>
<br>
</p><i></i>