Making the Vindonissa Gallic F

[Gaius Julius Caesar]

That is cool. Great work, looks very authentic.

[sulla felix]

Looks excellent - great job!

[Peroni]

Excellent result!

will you be tinning or silvering the browband too - like the original?

[Marcus Mummius]

Very nice work!

[Virilis]

Very nice work!

I think it is amazing hock: ! The original helmets surely had this hand-made feeling to them! The shape of the bowl is great too in my opinion...

[L_CORNELIUS_CETHEGUS]

wonderful. I certainly like your helmet. Just a question. How did you do the cups for the enamel? Just like you did it on you pugio, but with brass nails instead?
And, whats next?

I actually took a completely new approach on these... the process is identical to the one described in this video [url:1u0n8njf]http://www.wonderhowto.com/how-to-bezel-stone-gem-jewelry-224799/[/url]. I used 0.032 weight brass. Steps:
1) For the walls of the cup I cut a strip about 1/16th" (1.6mm) and wrapped it around a 3/8" (9.5mm) mandrel to form a ring. I then used pliers and snips to ensure the opening was snug and close fitting. I then dragged it across a file to ensure one side was clean and smooth.
2) I smeared a generous amount of flux paste onto a flat piece of 0.032 weight brass sheet (which I had temporarily clamped down to a metal working surface with locking pliers) and squashed the ring onto it. The flux will hold it in place.
3) Having some tin solder handy, I snipped off a couple tiny bits and arranged them inside the ring, stuck to the bottom plate in the flux. At least one I put right against the seam of the ring. If there isn't much flux, I sometimes smear a little extra over the tiny bits of tin.
4) Using a simple MAPP gas torch, I aim the flame at the whole thing, moving gently around. The tin flows into the seams in about 4-5 seconds. Let it cool a moment.
5) With snips, I cut away 99% of the projecting sheet from the underside of the cup, which leaves a rough edge. Then I simply file the excess away leaving a nice clean surface. The white tin seam is nearly invisible, being barely the width of a hair.
6) Finally, after washing the cup with soapy water to remove any residual burnt flux, I clamp the cup in a vice and carefully drill a hole in the center with a 1/8" drill bit. After that you can rivet as normal.

I made an illustration in case any of that is confusing :oops:
[attachment=0:1u0n8njf]<!-- ia0 cups.jpg<!-- ia0 [/attachment:1u0n8njf]

--Kelsey

[jvrjenivs]

ah, okay. Seems like another good method. It's actually a method I used quote often on jewellery making class, but didn't think of using it this way.

Need some of these cups in due course for my own helmet in progress, so I'm now thinking which method to follow. Problem is I would like to use real enamel in the cups, but don't want to destroy the coating of the helmet or any brazing joints on those cups by adding heat for the enamel to melt.

[L_CORNELIUS_CETHEGUS]

What's next... hmm. Well I'd really like to silver the browband like Peronis was asking about, especially since I've made every effort to keep it as accurate to the original as I can. I made a few experiments with tinning but wasn't too pleased with the results. The lustre of the metal is just not as impressive as with the silvering I've seen on some of the work that's been shown here. So instead I'm hoping that I'll be able to do that with silver foil or some other method.

I have to get to work on the crest and crest holder next. I'm all out of coal for the forge and now my oxygen tank is empty too so I need to replenish before I start work on the crest holder. I'm really torn on what color to do the crest... it seems each one I see around here is equally awesome

--Kelsey

[L_CORNELIUS_CETHEGUS]

Need some of these cups in due course for my own helmet in progress, so I'm now thinking which method to follow. Problem is I would like to use real enamel in the cups, but don't want to destroy the coating of the helmet or any brazing joints on those cups by adding heat for the enamel to melt.

My memory could be wrong jvjenivs but I seem to remember you were interested in coral at one point. I did find an interesting supplier that should fit the bill here: [url:mfnqwv1k]http://www.firemountaingems.com/search.asp?SKW=coral&Constraint=3x52x17[/url].

If the brass wall cups were not overly thick and still annealed, you could just bezel set the coral cabochons in place and press the edges in around the coral sides. I think the wall height needs to be 2/3 the height of the cabochon. That could be a beautiful and, I think, based on actual finds.

--Kelsey

[jvrjenivs]

Need some of these cups in due course for my own helmet in progress, so I'm now thinking which method to follow. Problem is I would like to use real enamel in the cups, but don't want to destroy the coating of the helmet or any brazing joints on those cups by adding heat for the enamel to melt.

My memory could be wrong jvjenivs but I seem to remember you were interested in coral at one point. I did find an interesting supplier that should fit the bill here: [url:2wk3v26d]http://www.firemountaingems.com/search.asp?SKW=coral&Constraint=3x52x17[/url].

If the brass wall cups were not overly thick and still annealed, you could just bezel set the coral cabochons in place and press the edges in around the coral sides. I think the wall height needs to be 2/3 the height of the cabochon. That could be a beautiful and, I think, based on actual finds.

--Kelsey

yeah, I'm still not sure if I should take either coral or enamel. Either would give a nice result, and indeed the coral option would be much easier. I've experience with setting gems to rings, so I should be able to get a nice result, by the way you suggest. Thanks for that website. It sounds pretty intersting. I've some coral beads, but these all have an ugly hole in them (yeah, that was where they were sold for, to attach them to a rope )

[Vitruvius]

Ave Kelsey,
All I can say is "WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!" You definitely deserve an award of SOME sort for that
Salve,
Larry Mager a.k.a. Vitruvius

[richsc]

Wonderful job, as I am just beginning metal work and can understand most of what you did. Have to ask for the raised or repousee work, did you use a pitch bowl or what?

[L_CORNELIUS_CETHEGUS]

Wonderful job, as I am just beginning metal work and can understand most of what you did. Have to ask for the raised or repousee work, did you use a pitch bowl or what?

Thanks! Nope, I just did it freehand without any solid backing. My setup for that part was much more primitive I suppose. I had an oxygen-propane torch standing by which I held stationary by clamping it in a vice. With the flame going (not too high) and holding the helmet in my left hand, I would heat an area of about a 1/2 inch where I wanted to raise the relief (neck, brow, etc.). Once it was glowing reddish-orange (careful not to burn through) I would then lightly tap at the hot spot from the inside, moving a bit at a time. If I pushed too far, I'd tap it back from the outside as well. The tool I was using was the edge on the head of a 1/4" square steel stake (like a railroad stake but much smaller), but you can use anything handy as long as it doesn't leave too many edge marks in the metal. Practice on some scrap -- it's not hard to get the hang of but if you work out the kinks then it'll save you burning through (ugh) or having to clean up by planishing afterwards which is a major pain. Just go slow and gentle and pay attention to the metal thickness

[Gaius Julius Caesar]

Good to hear. Looking forward to more progress reports!

[richsc]

The tool I was using was the edge on the head of a 1/4" square steel stake (like a railroad stake but much smaller

rather like a chasing tool? We learned to use tool steel and form it to the desired shape and harden to a yellow temper of only 450'F before quenching.

Tim McCreight's "Complete Metalsmith" is a good reference on this.

I can see working the iron when hot and soft without backing, since you would ignite the pitch. But brass, bronze or silver you would need pitch bowl. Unless someone out there has done otherwise?